Category: Travel


Santa Fe – Stay A While

A trip to Santa deserves at least four days to do it right and with leisure.  In the series of blogs I have written, I haven’t even scratched the surface of all that I did on my five day visit. It’s a magical place you should linger in, discovering all that it has to offer while also just sitting a while, absorbing it. To do that, you’ll need a place to stay – or places to stay. Why not sleep around a little bit to see what some of the hotels have to offer?

Bishop’s Lodge

Built into the hills, every lodging building is on a slightly different elevation, accessible by windy roads or walkable paths. The rooms are warm and just slightly rough enough to feel authentic. My private, rustic patio was my favorite part. With horseback riding (very mellow, friendly horses), a spacious pool and wonderful, enthusiastic chef, staying at Bishop’s Lodge pays homage to its hilly terrain.

My room at Bishop's Lodge with a charming, private patio.

My room at Bishop’s Lodge with a charming, private patio.

Eldorado Hotel & Spa

When you want to get right into the heart of the city so that just about everything is a short walk away, the Eldorado Hotel & Spa is a great choice. It is grand and cosmopolitan but comfortable. I spent two days there and was so impressed with the level of customer service. Extreme politeness and accommodation. Even the folks in housekeeping couldn’t stand to see my necklaces laid out on the counter so they hung them up for me on hooks I hadn’t even noticed. It was like having my mom there!

Eldorado Hotel Lobby.

Eldorado Hotel Lobby.

Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe

I ended my trip with a real splurge, a night at The Four Seasons Santa Fe. It looks like a village and each room feels like your own, private getaway. I lounged on the chaise on the patio; stretched out in the King Size bed, hung up every item of clothing I had in the spacious closet even though I was leaving the next morning. And mostly, I walked around barefoot on the heated bathroom floor. What a wonderful luxury.

The firepit at The Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe.

The firepit at The Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe.

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At the Four Seasons, the rooms are all like individual homes. Look at that big sky.

My room at the Four Seasons Rancho Encantado Santa Fe.

My room at the Four Seasons Rancho Encantado Santa Fe.

I enjoyed a cocktail on the patio around a large, elegant firepit while watching the sun set. Then I joined a group for dinner where we met Executive Chef Andrew Cooper, a charming, energetic, young chef. He carries on the legacy of preparing great dishes with simple, very well-chosen ingredients shared by his predecessor Chef Charles Dale, whose meal I so enjoyed when he visited Denver last year. Dale just opened his very own restaurant, Bouche Bistro. I wish I’d had time to go there – next time.

Course after course, Chef Cooper gave us an indication of what they serve at Terra, making the most of local ingredients. My favorite was the salmon, prepared “sous vide,” in a sealed bag, long-cooked in water. It was tender and tasted so good.

There are many, many wonderful lodging options in Santa Fe from budget to extravagant.  The fortunate thing is that, with such a small city, you can pick the right place for your preferences and budget and still be able to get around the city easily, seeing all that it has to offer.

When you hear “Santa Fe,” most people immediately conjure up visions of art – and jewelry, as they should. Of course, that’s not all Santa Fe has to offer by a long shot. The city has certainly developed into a mecca of art with museums, galleries and even curated art collections within hotels.

An example of art that can be found in area hotels, such as this in the Hotel Santa Fe.

An example of art that can be found in area hotels, such as this in the Hotel Santa Fe.

The Georgia O'Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe is just one example of the many museums in the city. Note, this is the exhibit that originated in Denver.

The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe is just one example of the many museums in the city. Note, this is the exhibit that originated in Denver.

The highest concentration of art can be found immediately outside of downtown Santa Fe on Canyon Road. A historic neighborhood with charming adobe dwellings and curved streets, Canyon Road has more than 100 galleries of all different styles. The gallery staff are happy to talk to you about the works of art, some of them their own. It’s a great experience to have the artist tell you what they were thinking and trying to accomplish when creating a work of art. One can walk between downtown and Canyon Road but the free shuttle also gets you there in minutes.

Even a rainy day didn't dampen enthusiasm for the many, charming galleries along Santa Fe's Canyon Road.

Even a rainy day didn’t dampen enthusiasm for the many, charming galleries along Santa Fe’s Canyon Road.

The village of Madrid  pronounced with the emphasis on the Mad, is a historic mining and ghost town on the Turquoise Trail in the Ortiz mountains. It is now an artists colony and has a cute collection of shops and restaurants. One of the very popular hangouts is the The Mine Shaft Tavern. You can just imagine smudged up, exhausted miners bellying up to the stand-up bar (4 inches higher than normal so the men could stand up straight after being hunched over all day in the mines) to order a well-deserved drink. Today, we can get a well-deserved cucumber margarita, rimmed in chili salt and a beef brisket sandwich with cherry BBQ sauce.

A tender beef brisket sandwich at the Mineshaft Tavern.

A tender beef brisket sandwich at the Mineshaft Tavern.

The Madrid Old Coal Town Museum, adjoining the restaurant is fascinating. Find out what life was like and why Walt Disney found inspiration for Disneyland in this small town.

A vintage car in the Old Coal Town Museum.

A vintage car in the Old Coal Town Museum.

One of the most beautiful, artistic displays in all of Santa Fe may just be the stars. Out in the countryside, near the  High Feather Ranch and B & B discover just how many stars there are in the sky with Peter Lipscomb of Astronomy Adventures. Whether you come as a group or meet up with others, Lipscomb’s telescope, totally awesome laser pointer and enthusiasm makes for a special and educational evening and makes you feel very, very small.

Day 2 in Santa Fe brought the need for elastic-waist pants. From morning until night, the day was devoted to food and drink. Am I complaining? Heck no! Have I gained five pounds since I got here? Heck ya!

I enjoyed delicious huevos rancheros at Hotel Santa Fe where I met well-known and well-loved Santa Fe chef Matt Yohalem who talked to me and the group I was with about how wonderful it is to have a year-round farmer’s market in Santa Fe that is ever-growing. Drawn in by his enthusiasm for eating local, we eagerly followed him down the street to the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market located by the Railyard district, an up-and-coming, chic, redevelopment with galleries, shops, restaurants, a park and soon a movie theater.

Some of the non-food items you'll find at the Santa Fe Farmer's Market. Beautiful colors!

Some of the non-food items you’ll find at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. Beautiful colors!

Farm-fresh eggs at the Santa Fe Farmer's Market. Pure beauty, don't you think?

Farm-fresh eggs at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. Pure beauty, don’t you think?

Just look at those radishes and chilis!

Just look at those radishes and chilis!

Matt knows the growers and has a good sense for what they’ll have each week. He knows who he’ll go to for eggs, who he’ll go to for lettuces and so on. He’s never completely sure what he’ll wind up with but he knows it will be fresh. As he told us, grocery store eggs can be 6 weeks old but at the farmer’s market they are maybe 6 HOURS old. Matt did a lot of shopping while we were there.

Chef Matt Yohalem did his usual serious shopping at the Farmer's Market. What he found that morning would be dinner that night.

Chef Matt Yohalem did his usual serious shopping at the Farmer’s Market. What he found that morning would be dinner that night.

While Matt went back to his restaurant to plan out what he was going to make with everything he bought, we went on a Culinary Walking Tour put together by the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Our very passionate guide, Lois Ellen Frank, took us to three of Santa Fe’s most popular restaurants, La Boca, the restaurant at the Inn of the Anasazi and Il Piatto Italian Kitchen. When you go to Santa Fe, be sure to schedule one of these walking tours from the Santa Fe School of Cooking. It’s a great way to sample multiple restaurants, meet the chefs, get foodie insight and walk off a couple of calories between stops.

Some nibbles at La Boca.

Some nibbles at La Boca.

At Il Piatto, Chef Matt made us delicious things with the items he had bought at the Farmer’s Market.

Gazpacho from Il Piatto. Chef Matt purees the soup but leaves some of each of the ingredients that went into it in chopped form to show you what's in your soup.

Gazpacho from Il Piatto. Chef Matt purees the soup but leaves some of each of the ingredients that went into it in chopped form to show you what’s in your soup.

Somehow, I managed to be hungry again a few hours later. My stomach was, unfortunately, learning to expand (thanks to those elastic-wasted eating pants) to accommodate all of the good food I was eating. Not coincidentally, my rear end and thighs were expanding too.

To ease into the night’s eating frenzy, er, I mean dinner, I got a lesson in mixology from Chris “The Barman” at Secreto, the bar at the St. Francis Hotel. Chris is a high-energy guy who crafts cocktails with the same care and deliberateness that the chefs do with their food. Here he is demonstrating the importance of shaking a drink with verve.

XXXXX emphasized the importance of shakin' it good!

Chris “The Barman” emphasized the importance of shakin’ it good and he should know. He’s a master “mixologist.”

I moved on to the Inn at Loretto for a luxurious dinner. There, I had the most tender short ribs ever with scallops. See their pretty patio?

I love curtains on a patio. I can imagine how great a party or wedding would be out here at Inn at Loretto's patio.

I love curtains on a patio. I can imagine how great a party or wedding would be out here at Inn at Loretto’s patio.

A dessert flight at La Posada de Santa Fe, known as the “arts hotel” because of its curated art collection and history of being something of an artists’ salon,  topped off the evening.

I sampled some of the chef's favorite desserts including bread pudding and a Mexican chocolate moose that was to die for.

I sampled some of the chef’s favorite desserts at La Posada including bread pudding and a Mexican chocolate moose that was to die for.

Summer vacation is calling to me a little early this year. I took advantage of Great Lakes Airlines’ new route from Denver to Santa Fe to have a long weekend.  The flight was surprisingly smooth – I didn’t think it would be since the planes are small – 19-30 seats. But even over the mountains, it was great. I felt like I was in a scene from “Casablanca” walking out to my plane and seeing propellers out my window. The fact that I could also look out the front window of the plane, to get a pilot’s-eye-view was an added bonus – a little unnerving  during landing. It’s best to just look out the side windows, I’ve decided. Walk off the plane and someone hands you your checked luggage that just came out the “trunk” of the plane – no waiting at a carousel. You get off the plane and you’re good to go, literally.

Santa Fe has always felt like a big city to me but it really isn’t. The main city population is just 68,000. It’s the culture that is big, giving the sense of grandness, which it certainly has. There is some urban sprawl but it’s a good thing, making available additional opportunities for great eating, lodging and experiences, like Santa Fe Spirits which I’ll tell you about below. I’ve only spent a day or two in Santa Fe at a time over the years so I was anxious for five full days of exploration.

Here’s a wrap-up of day 1:

Fuel Up:

To some it may seem silly that my first stop was to a donut shop but to others, I can see you out there nodding and saying “of course!” You’re my people! Whoo’s Donuts are made fresh from scratch daily. The decor is funky and the donuts are delicious. I sampled two donuts – one that had bacon in that is caramelized with chilis to give it some oomph and a blue corn cake one with lavender/blueberry frosting. I should have taken pictures of them before I dug in but, well, I dug in too fast. Sorry.

Whoo's Donuts.

Whoo’s Donuts with creative flavors that give a nod to Santa Fe like the divine Blue Corn/Blueberry Lavender with a tender yet substantial enough flavor so that you know what you ate. No “spun sugar” donuts that melt in your mouth before you could really taste them.

After a donut, what comes next but some chocolate, am I right? Thankfully, The ChocolateSmith is about three steps away.  Delicious chocolates and cute, cute shop. Both places are owned by a young couple. I got to meet co-owner Kari Keenan. See her picture below but first you get to look at some of the chocolates.

Chocolate Smith chocolates.

ChocolateSmith chocolates.

This is Kari Keenan, co-owner of ChocolateSmith and Whoo's Donuts. Cute shop, huh?

This is Kari Keenan, co-owner of ChocolateSmith and Whoo’s Donuts. Lovely owner. Cute shop.

Something to see:

Santa Fe is known for its culture and rich history. I combined both with a visit to the New Mexico History Museum. I wish I’d had a lot more time here because exhibits like “Telling New Mexico: Stories from Then and Now,” the museum’s main exhibit gives interesting and extensive information about Santa Fe’s history. The new exhibit, “Cowboys Real and Imagined” was also great, well-laid out mixing video, artifacts (sometimes combined) and hands-on items that give a complete picture of the role and perceptions of cowboys throughout history. I’d recommend this museum be your first stop so that you can have a better grasp of New Mexico’s history and pride. It would help you appreciate everything you are going to experience from here on out, even more.

The museum is within the New Mexico History Museum/Palace of the Governor’s complex, combining the state’s newest museum with the oldest. Part of the museum is also in the Palace building, the oldest public building still being used in the country. It is outside of the Palace of the Governors that you’ll see Native Americans lined up selling their wares. They are there as part of the Native American Artisans Program in which crafts people have to show standards of authenticity. It’s a lottery system as to who gets to sell there on any given day so the selection changes often and is the only opportunity buy directly from the source. Also within that campus is The Press at the Palace of the Governors, a working press and exhibit that includes a recreation of Gustave Baumann’s print studio. Okay, that name doesn’t ring a bell for me and probably should but it was very cool to see. I met Tom, the head printer and he does beautiful work and has the coolest eye glasses ever.

The Press at the Palace of the Governors. This part is a recreation of an old printing press but there is a real, functioning press in the building too.

The Press at the Palace of the Governors. This part is a recreation of an old printing press but there is a real, functioning press in the building too.

Time to eat again: 

All that history-learning made me hungry so I simply walked across the plaza (where live music is often playing), to have pizza at Rooftop Pizza. The combinations are all inventive. I ordered the Number 10: lobster, shrimp, mushrooms, apple-smoked bacon, leeks, truffle oil, alfredo sauce and flour cheeses on a blue corn crust. Let me sum up my review by saying there were audible moans of pleasure.

Lobster and shrimp pizza slice from Rooftop Pizza.

Lobster and shrimp pizza slice from Rooftop Pizza.

Marble Brewery doesn't serve food on-site but you can have Rooftop Pizza, in the same building, deliver to the brewery. Handy, especially for enjoying on their outdoor patio overlooking the Plaza.

Marble Brewery doesn’t serve food on-site but you can have Rooftop Pizza, in the same building, deliver to the brewery. Handy, especially for enjoying on their outdoor patio overlooking the Plaza.

How's this for a cool place to shop? This is where Rooftop Pizza and Marble Brewery are.

How’s this for a cool place to shop? This is where Rooftop Pizza and Marble Brewery are.

Time to stroll: 

Stuffed silly from lunch, I strolled around the Plaza and soon discovered Sena Plaza, a wonderful surprise. The site of the oldest home in Santa Fe, the beautiful and lush courtyard now houses La Casa Sena Restaurant and many shops.

A romantic place for lunch or dinner, La Casa Sena.

A romantic place for lunch or dinner, La Casa Sena.

Todos Santos confection shop inside the Plaze de Sena.

Todos Santos confection shop inside the Plaze de Sena. You must stop there for some of his chocolates and to see this fun/funky place.

A spirited tour:

Back in Denver, I’d heard about (and sampled) the spirits of Santa Fe Spirits. I had really, really, I mean really liked what I  tried and was excited to be able to visit Santa Fe Spirits on its home turf. I met the owner, toured his facility and sampled even more of his delicious spirits.

Founder, an charming englishman, Colin Keegan tests one of his spirits.

Founder, a charming Englishman, Colin Keegan tests one of his spirits during a tasting. This one was my favorite – very herbal.

Man, it had to be hard getting that apple in there!

Man, it had to be hard getting that apple in there! Actually, it involves putting a baby apple in the bottle, suspending the bottle with a crocheted sling (which Colin hesitates to cop to making by hand) and letting the apple grow inside the bottle. Isn’t that cool? And isn’t Colin even more charming for crocheting?

Time to rest and…eat some more!:

I’ll be staying at a few places over the course of my visit. The first was Bishop’s Lodge up in the hills, affording beautiful views.

My room, with a private patio at Bishop's Lodge.

Spacious room, with a private patio at Bishop’s Lodge. Loved those robes!

I enjoyed a delicious meal by Chef Chris McLean with Santa Fe-inspired items like rattlesnake-rabbit sausage (delicious and yet alarming), 16-hour braised beef short ribs and venison stew. Dang it! Again, I dug in before taking a picture!  He regaled my fellow diners and I with entertaining stories about his time as personal chef for the President of Guam and meeting the actual Queen of Sheba.

A little something of a view from Bishops Lodge.

A little something of a view from Bishops Lodge. Could you cope with that?

Exhausted, I turned in for the night to prepare for Day 2.

Denver, ya know I love ya, right? But there’s one need you just can’t fulfill. Nothing personal, purely a matter of geography… Colorado straddles the backbone of an entire continent, and Denver is the only large American city over 1,000 miles from a navigable body of water. This distinction, among many others, inspires me to love life here along the Front Range. But by spring, I crave salty ocean breezes in my hair, the sound of the surf, and digging my toes into the warm sand of a sunny beach. Call it a primordial urge to return to the briny depths, or just a desire to chillax in the sun. Tho’ I love ‘em in summer, the beaches of Cherry Creek, Aurora Reservoir or Chatfield in spring just won’t cut it! So I started Googling to find the closest beach to my front door on a tight budget. Surprisingly, I found three intriguing choices, all relatively equi-distant and requiring about the same amount of drive time: LA‘s string of Pacific beaches; Puerto Penasco in Mexico, on the Gulf of California; or Galveston, Texas, on the Gulf of Mexico. Nixing Mexico due to an expired passport, and LA’s cold Pacific waters, I opted for the unknown Texas Gulf Coast. For a native Coloradan, this goes against every fiber of my mile high being; ever since the dinosaurs, Coloradans and Texans have feuded. I hesitated planning a trip to the Lone Star state, but found a great airfare (cheaper than driving) and decided to fly south to see if Texas has anything to brag about.

GALVESTON Landing in Houston, I rented a car and headed straight for the coast. Galveston is on my mind, and thankfully the trip was fast through the Houston sprawl. Crossing a playful bridge onto Galveston island, glimpses of shimmering gulf waters caught my eye and warmed my heart. Hmmm – o.k., maybe Texas does have something to offer. My list of must-see attractions included The Strand, historic mansions and neighborhoods, and of course the beaches. On all counts, I was pleasantly surprised, dare I say, even “smitten” by this slightly tawdry southern belle? Galveston is a sub-tropical garden, with a treasure trove of fascinating history and seaside attractions. Exactly what I needed to erase memories of cold winter days and snowstorms!

The shimmering gulf waters of Galveston.

The shimmering gulf waters of Galveston.

PORT ARANSAS After a couple of days in Galveston, my wanderlust drove me to head further south along the coast to explore more. After a four hour drive through perfectly flat, green farm fields, and no frills small towns, I found Port Aransas. “Port A” to the locals, is a charming Texas island town with miles of sandy beaches, wildlife refuges and loads of kitschy fun. Spring along the Gulf Coast is temperamental, and a stubborn cool wind chilled my plans to sprawl in the sun on the soft sand. Though walks along the beach were pleasant, and wildlife viewing at area bird sanctuaries was rewarding, curiosity beckoned me to abandon the coast and head inland for new adventures. With flat, straight, well-maintained highways, and no severe winter freezes, driving in this part of Texas was fast and easy; another thing I had to grudgingly admire.

Port Aransas Marina

Port Aransas Marina

SAN ANTONIO I saw San Antonio slowly emerge out of the brush and cattle ranches, with a concentric necklace of highways that are easily navigated. Soon the towers of downtown appeared on the horizon, and signs led me to the geographic and spiritual heart of the city. My destination was the most famous single spot in all the giant state of Texas and its symbolic center.

The Alamo: A compound of historic structures, courtyards and gardens, the Alamo was packed with tourists from around the globe. Amazingly, there is no admission fee to tour any of the attractions! For two hours I wandered the grounds, enjoying the excellent museum that details the history of both the region and the battle. Touched and impressed by the story and history of this place, my appreciation grew.

The Alamo, San Antonio, TX.

The Alamo, San Antonio, TX.

The River Walk: Leaving the hallowed grounds of the Alamo, I craved something fresh and fun, and I found it in the nearby River Walk. Along with the Alamo, this is the most popular attraction in all of Texas, and at times it felt like the whole state was walking the narrow pathways with me. Along the scenic oldest stretches, filled with cafes and bars, it became an intimate experience, jarring and incongruous after speeding through the vast isolation of rural and semi-rural Texas. Possibly more than any other American urban space, excluding NYC subways, strolling the River Walk is a tango of strangers, rubbing against each other in a shared desire to get somewhere. Bad if you’re agoraphobic. Great if you crave energy and connection. I relaxed and went with the flow. Impossibly romantic, bordering on cute, I found the River Walk among the most compelling spaces of my travels in America, or even abroad. Like Santa Fe and San Francisco, it has a sense of place; but it is unique in its intimacy and density of experience. At night, it transforms into a magical oasis of dancing lights and mariachi songs. Once again, a Texan has caught my eye and I found myself reluctantly falling in love.

San Antonio's famous River Walk.

San Antonio’s famous River Walk.

A Night in old Havana: Among the many lodging options in central San Antonio, the Hotel Havana called to me with its quiet location overlooking a tranquil, more natural branch of the River Walk.  with wooden floors creaking beneath my feet as I climbed to my room, my imagination convinced me that Hemingway would emerge from a room at any moment. My room was full of character, framed by plantation shutters. The bed and simple bathroom were well-appointed, and smelled of sandalwood and tobacco leaves. Old photos greeted me, and my dreams of a Cuban tropical fantasy felt true. Before turning in for the night, I grabbed a nightcap in the adjoining bar, Ocho, with its greenhouse conservatory architecture and wall that opens to take in the views and heady jasmine flowers of the River Walk below. I slept late and headed out for another day exploring San Antonio.

My room at Hotel Havana.

My room at Hotel Havana.

Ocho, next to the Hotel Havana.

Ocho, next to the Hotel Havana.

The River Beckons: I wandered the River Walk, enjoying the lush foliage, dappled sunlight and many historic architectural details. Hokey, but irresistible, I took a ride on one of the colorful boats plying the waters. Pleasant and worthwhile, like the River Walk pathways, it can be a cramped and intimate experience with strangers. The boat guide plugged businesses along the way while also providing useful narration. The ride completed a scenic loop after 35-40 minutes.

History is Everywhere: Emerging from the subterranean watery world, I followed signs to the King William Historic District and was delighted by the narrow old streets lined by drop dead gorgeous old mansions and lush landscaping. Graceful old oaks stretched over the streets and created verdant tunnels, cool escapes from the sun. Many fine old homes are open for tours, but I prefered to roam the streets and ended in SouthTown, an artsy enclave in its infancy. Sipping a latte in a café, I pondered how this is a city full of history and attractions, yet lacking continuity. San Antonio feels like a city striving to become more than the sum of its parts. The pieces are there, and with strong leadership it is poised to become a truly great urban center.

A home in the King William Historic District, San Antonio.

A home in the King William Historic District, San Antonio.

The Last Resort:For my last night, I left the city to indulge myself in a resort experience at The Westin at La Cantera Hill Country. On the northern edge of San Antonio at the entry to the Texas Hill Country, La Cantera is carved into the limestone bluffs, the foundation of San Antonio, quite literally. The resort overlooks city lights and deep green, undulating hills. The place is grand yet comfortable with posh decorating, numerous restaurants, a spa and one of the best martini’s ever.  Lush courtyards, pools and waterfalls beckoned me outside. An idyllic escape from reality, with resort amenities like golf, tennis, pools, spa and health club, I didn’t know what to do first.

One of the pools at The Westin La Cantera Hill Country.

Some of the pools at The Westin La Cantera Hill Country.

A view of the Hill Country from the patio of the Westin La Cantera Hill Country resort.

A view of the Hill Country from the patio of the Westin La Cantera Hill Country resort.

Not the rugged High Rockies of my beloved Colorado, the Hill Country’s rolling hills were beautiful and offered their own charms. Relaxing in the warm pools of La Cantera, I realized Texas had become a new place to me, full of surprising beauty both natural and crafted by man. Now I’m not saying I want to move there, but the Texas Gulf and San Antonio offers much to enjoy. Even to those of us who live in the most beautiful state of all. Some rivalries never really die!

Stay tuned for T. Ravlin Lyte’s experiences at San Antonio’s Fiesta 2013, coming soon.

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Few remember a colorful period in Denver history when the very fate of America’s Republic was in the balance. Among the first gold prospectors who arrived along the banks of Cherry Creek in 1858, a handful of Portuguese spies disguised themselves as carpenters and craftsmen. They were sent by their Monarchs to survey the area and determine if supply lines could be created to counter the influence of the British in the Americas as conflicts were brewing between the two great European powers.  (Or at least that’s what they told the Mexican government who allowed them transit.) The truth was that they were secretly in cahoots with the British and together sought an end to the dangerous “American democracy experiment” as they saw it. Between the British in Canada and the Portuguese in South America, they would halt the Manifest Destiny western expansion to the Pacific, containing the Republic to the east of the Mississippi River. Eventually they would overcome the U.S., then tackle the Spanish in Mexico and create a Joint Empire to reinstate European domination of the New World.

But how could this be done? This is what the spies had to figure out.

Colorado’s Navigable Waterways
The spies found a world rich with beauty and resources of every kind: minerals, timber, wildlife, arable land. What’s more, no diseases or other plagues as were found in the tropical jungles to the South. But a key element was missing: navigable water to provide ocean access to this land of riches. Without this, the region was beyond their grasp and worthless.

Gazing upon the massive old growth cottonwoods and ponderosa pines, snowmelt flows, terrain and existing waterways, an outrageous plan was formulated and sent to the King of England and the Emperor of Portugal for approval.

A series of sluices, locks and dams was envisioned to divert the waters flowing from the numerous canyons west of Denver, into a manmade channel that would head south to the Rio Grande River. There, bolstered by the additional flow of waters to the north, a navigable channel all the way to the Gulf of Mexico would be created within the borders of the new Joint Empire. Seafaring vessels would be able to tap the riches of the Rocky Mountain Empire without entering U.S. territory and the Mississippi River basin. Both Monarchs approved the plan to tame the ecosystem of the continent, and pledged to devote vast amounts of fortune to make it happen.

The Role of Logs
Soon more Portuguese arrived, settling in along the banks on the east side of the Platte. They built a massive timber processing mill along the shores of a lake they created just west of present day downtown Denver, a diversion channel was dug to fill a natural depression. (Looking at old maps, you can see it was there even as of 1913.) Timber was harvested in the canyons west and south of Denver, from what we now know as Deer Creek, Waterton and Coal Creek canyons. Mules pulled them down to the creek beds where they were floated to the central mills.

Within a few years, the mills had built a fleet of massive, flat-bottomed barges that would be used to transport the timber, and other natural resources. The maiden voyage was scheduled for the spring floods of 1863.  All of this was under the guise of building framing timbers for the mines and bridges planned for the camps and railroads springing up to the west. Using this as their cover story, the other prospectors and occasional US cavalry never suspected this was a diabolical plan to seize control of the territory and open a two front war on the U.S. in this new territory!

Disaster Strikes
In 1863, the first barges were ready for the spring snowmelt to swell the diversion channels, and all looked well for the outrageous European plan. As is typical in this region, Spring was dry and the snowmelt was barely above winter levels; certainly not high enough to fill the diversion channels and float barges to the south! Then, on April 1, 1863, disaster struck. No one is sure how, but legend has it that an early medical peyote smoker dropped his lit joint into a pile of dried hemp, setting it alight. Embers landed in the sawdust piles of the shipyards and soon a massive wall of flames spread to Denver’s budding business district – completely built of cheap wooden planks. Due to the medicinal character of the smoke, none of the early settlers cared to pick up their buckets and fight the fire; instead, they oohed and aahhed as each structure exploded in glorious colors!

Within a few hours, Denver’s entire commercial area was a smoky pile of ash! With one careless flick of medicinal doobie, European Monarch’s plans to create a Joint Empire on the carcass of a defeated U.S. went up in smoke. Ironically, exactly one year later on April 1, 1864, a massive flood swept up away the shipyards remnants; it would have provided enough water to fill the diversion channels and fire up the Joint.

To this day, remnants of the diabolical plan are found in City Park and Park Hill neighborhoods…Park Hill Library: Check out the fireplace medallions crafted by the early Portuguese spies honoring the vision of a seafaring Denver. Look at the ceiling, too, for it was crafted from the one remaining flat bottom barge hull that survived the disasters of 1863 and 64.

Park Hill Library: Check out the fireplace medallions crafted by the early Portuguese spies honoring the vision of a seafaring Denver. Look at the ceiling, too, for it was crafted from the one remaining flat bottom barge hull that survived the disasters of 1863 and 64.
City Park native palm trees, planted in the park by the early Portuguese.

City Park native palm trees, planted in the park by the early Portuguese.

City Park fountain sculpture showing Denver as key to European dreams of Global Domination.

City Park fountain sculpture showing Denver as key to European dreams of Global Domination.

Smiley School was originally built as The Joint Crowns Palace. The façade honors the Joint Empire.

Smiley School was originally built as The Joint Crowns Palace. The façade honors the Joint Empire.

Park Hill Church façade celebrates the Portuguese Manueline style of elaborate scrollwork decoration; look carefully at the center medallion celebrating Denver’s rise as a major inland port.

Park Hill Church façade celebrates the Portuguese Manueline style of elaborate scrollwork decoration; look carefully at the center medallion celebrating Denver’s rise as a major inland port.

Every April first, check out these local treasures and celebrate Denver’s freedom from the Joint Empire!

Immerse yourself in a vacation in Gloucester, Massachusetts  a historical working seaport and artists’ colony. The proud and friendly residents are happy to have you.  So dive into Gloucester life – the water’s fine.

2012-09-06_16-22-52_962

Photo courtesy CDM Communications

To really, truly experience Gloucester, blend some touristy activities with living life-like a local. The residents are happy to tell you their favorite place for a lobster roll like their mother used to make or the best beach to find beach glass. But first, you should gain an understanding of the history and the people.

A long, rich history

Gloucester’s history goes all the way back to the early 1600s when French explorer, Samuel de Champlain visited and had peaceful encounters with the Native Americans there. English Captain John Smith visited eight years later. Fishing ruled although agriculture tried to take hold too. Gloucester is one of four communities in the area called Cape Ann (which was so named by England’s King Charles for his mother). The others are Rockport, Essex and Manchester-by-the-Sea. For more details about the area’s history, visit: http://www.capeannmuseum.org/about/history-cape-ann/.

The Man at the Wheel statue is a memorial to all of the fishermen that have been lost at sea for centuries, up to modern day. Photo courtesy Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce.

The Man at the Wheel statue is a memorial to all of the fishermen that have been lost at sea for centuries, up to modern day. Photo courtesy Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce.

Get to know the people

Because of this rich history, Gloucester residents are incredibly proud, hard-working, compassionate and earnest. The residents are predominantly Italian or Portuguese with active churches and social clubs.

When you ask someone “how’s the fishing industry going for you here in Gloucester?” they are likely to give a sly smile and ask “how much time have you got?” They don’t hold back explaining that they walk a wobbly line between avoiding overfishing and coping with ever-changing government regulations that make keeping their centuries-old way of life, alive.

Then there is the division between those who want Gloucester to stay just as it is and those who have encouraged the building of a new, large hotel. The people on that side of the fence (or should I say “dock”), which include young and old, and fishermen alike, say that without being able to bring in more people, year-round, Gloucester as they know it will die.

Plants grow in and among old lobster traps, creating a sculpture of sorts. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Plants grow in and among old lobster traps, creating a sculpture of sorts. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Spend a little time at Joey Ciaramitaro’s business, Captain Joe & Son’s Wholesale Lobster Company, (http://www.wholesalelobster.com/) which he and his co-owner cousin Frankie have worked at since they were children, and you’ll start to get a real feel for the dilemmas and the passion for Gloucester. Fishermen in boats of all sizes pull right up to Captain Joe & Son’s dock and greet Joey and Frankie with tubs of lobsters and crab they’ve just hauled up from traps set in the harbor.

After weighing the lobster haul, Joey and Frankie sort the lobsters into tanks to be sold to restaurants, markets and individuals like the Portuguese gentleman who regularly comes in to buy lobsters for dinner, as he has for 30 years. Frankie and Joey work more than 13 hour days, 7 days a week during the lobster season which is approximately May through December. In between the arrival of boats, Joey writes a hugely popular blog for Gloucester residents (and anyone else) that gives snippets of real life in Gloucester. It’s called “Good Morning Gloucester: My View of Life on the Dock” (http://goodmorninggloucester.wordpress.com/). It’s a great guide to everything Gloucester.

A world ruled by the water

Beyond understanding the people, a visitor has to grasp what it is to have life revolve around the ocean.  Those who don’t live near a coast can appreciate their mountains, desert, canyons, and lush farmland and feel lucky. But imagine what it must be like to have the massive ocean at your back door, available to you anytime. Want to go for a walk? Okay, walk along the beach, picking up beach glass, seeing surfers and boats. Want to picnic? Sure, take it to the beach but be ready to grab your grub and skedaddle inland as the water rolls in at high tide. Want to go for a drive? You bet. See all the unbelievably charming houses with weathered shingle and wood siding but then don’t be surprised when you round a corner and there’s the ocean with its roaring waves exploding up against the rocks. It’s bigger than life, always changing, always moving and as beautiful as it is dangerous. In a word, it’s “exhilarating” and they are lucky enough to live with that every day. We’re lucky enough to visit and appreciate.

Along the Gloucester coast. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Along the Gloucester coast at dusk. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Now that you have a sense for what is so special about Gloucester, you’re ready for your quick lesson in Gloucester Immersion.

When to go:
Most people visit Gloucester and the nearby areas during the typical tourist season, Memorial Day through Labor Day. The advantage to that is that all the seasonal places are open. The disadvantage is that it’s more crowded and harder to get the feel of living like the locals. An ideal time would be before or after summertime when the city collectively exhales and things start to take on a more normal feel. Plus, after Labor Day is the start of “leaf peeping” season. The only down side is that some shops, museums and water tours shut down or reduce their hours. The new hotel may change that though.

Where to stay: There is a variety of lodging around Cape Ann. The primary ones are Bass Rocks Ocean Inn (http://www.bassrocksoceaninn.com/ ), Atlantis Oceanfront Inn (http://atlantisoceanfrontinn.com/) and the Sea Lion Motel (http://www.sealionmotel.com/) plus many B&B’s.

Getting around:  Gloucester has a fine bus system that is dirt cheap and gets you to most everywhere you need. There are also taxis and a commuter rail system serving Boston and points outward. Driving on Cape Ann, like driving in Massachusetts in general can be challenging with narrow, winding roadways and intersections where right-of-way seems only a suggestion. The Gloucester Harbor Water Shuttle and Tour (http://www.capeannharbortours.com/shuttle.html) is a smart and fun way to go around the inner harbor, making several stops, getting to see Gloucester from the water side. Get off and on as much as you want for $10. Our captain Peter, and his first mate, young Cole, were entertaining and gave us lots of history, hints and good humor. Be sure to ask about the “lady” who keeps watch up front.

The Beauport Sleeper-McCann House is one of the historic homes available to tour. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

The Beauport Sleeper-McCann House is one of the historic homes available to tour. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

What to do:

  • Get a good feel for Gloucester and a little exercise with the Harbor Walk (http://gloucesterharborwalk.com/). See the sights while stopping at granite pillars with informational “postcards” telling about Gloucester’s rich history. Use your smart phone for additional interaction.
  • Do the touristy thing and go on a Whale Watch (http://www.capeannvacations.com/Vacation.cfm?ck=326).  This was an especially good year for seeing the massive creatures up close and personal.
  • Visit one of several excellent museums including the Cape Ann Museum (http://www.capeannmuseum.org/) for a history of Gloucester and examples of the many well-known artists who have been so inspired by Gloucester, they made their homes there.
  • Make a day of it at Maritime Gloucester (http://maritimegloucester.org/) which is part aquarium (including an area where
    Sail with master shipwright, Harold Burnham on his boat, "The Ardelle." Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

    Sail with master shipwright, Harold Burnham on his boat, “The Ardelle.” Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

    you can touch the sea life) and part maritime history of Gloucester. The latter is brought to you by Gorton’s, the fish stick folks who do, indeed, have their factory in Gloucester.  Their logo is the image of the famous Man-at-the-Wheel sculpture.

  • While you’re there, plan a tour upon the Schooner Ardelle (http://maritimegloucester.org/) and meet its designer and master shipwright, Harold Burnham. Ask to see the photo album of the making of the Ardelle.  He’ll take you around the Harbor and out to where it meets the sea.  Hold on because it can be a thrilling, bumpy ride on those waves complete with a slap of ocean splashing you in the face. The Ardelle is one of several schooners that make their port on Cape Ann and are available for pleasure trips.
  • Tour the Cape Pond Ice Company (http://www.capepondice.com/) made famous by the book and movie “The Perfect Storm” (http://www.capeannvacations.com/Perfect-Storm.cfm), one of many movies filmed in Gloucester.
  • Visit a historic property like the Hammond Castle, built in the 1920’s, complete with turret, shining armor and even a torture room. Or Beauport Sleeper-McCann House (http://www.historicnewengland.org/historic-properties/homes/Beauport/beauport), a fascinating look into early American interior design. Built in 1907, it was the summer home of one of America’s first professional interior designers, Henry Davis Sleeper. One of my favorite rooms on the tour was a dining room (one of five) decorated in blue, green and white ocean colors with a long dining table and chairs facing the harbor. The large window dropped down into a wall pocket to enable diners to gaze at and feel the ocean breeze while dining.

Where to shop:

Beth Williams in her studio, making glass beads. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Beth Williams in her studio, making glass beads. Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

The two main roads in the heart of Gloucester are Rogers Street which is a two-way thoroughfare and the one-way Main Street which is where the majority of shops and restaurants are. Curving and undulating, Main Street is conducive to strolling and shopping.  My favorite discoveries are The Bookstore of Gloucester (http://www.gloucesterbooks.com/) with a cozy collection of good reads; Pop Gallery (http://www.facebook.com/popgallery) for artsy gifts; and Toodleoo’s (http://toodeloos.com/), a children’s toy store.  Stop into Beth William’s glass studio (http://bethwilliams.com/) on your way to the Cape Ann Museum.  You can buy her beautiful glass jewelry and goodies and watch her at work in her studio.

Don’t limit your shopping to the main part of Main. Off the beaten path, down East

Scout Vintage Finds' owner is also a milliner and makes hats using vintage accents, each named after vintage cocktails. This one is the "Sidecar." Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Scout Vintage Finds’ owner is also a milliner and makes hats using vintage accents, each named after vintage cocktails. This one is the “Sidecar.” Photo courtesy CDM Communications.

Main are various restaurants and shops including Scout Vintage Finds (http://www.facebook.com/ScoutFinds), a little cottage of a place selling vintage and antique treasures and gorgeous hats for fashion and beach, hand-made by owner/milliner “Scout” King, using vintage accents and trim. See Scout in action too, in her shop-studio.

Where to eat:
There’s something for every taste in Gloucester but the locals gave me their list of favorites for casual, social and special dining.

Casual:

  • Sugar Magnolia’s, aka Sugar Mag’s (http://sugarmags.com/) serves hearty breakfasts and lunch. We loved the light and smooshy Crab Cake Sandwich and Banana bread cake for dessert.
  • Virgilio’s Italian Market, Bakery and Deli (http://udine4less.com/virgilios/) serves pastries and huge sandwiches. The subs are enough for two. The Nor’easter and Northender were recommended but the Eggplant Supreme was calling to us. On advice, we took our meal to St. Peter’s Square to enjoy the view of the water and fishing boats and to people watch.

Social:

Special:

  • Alchemy (http://www.alchemybistro.com/index.php) has a dark and exotic feeling, specializing in small plates to share like the truly magnificent morsel – dates stuffed with bleu cheese, wrapped in applewood smoked bacon. Unbelievably good.
  • Passports (http://www.udine4less.com/passports/) is known for the warm popovers they bring as a starter. Locals compare notes about how they like to eat them best – before the meal, saved to dip in the juice of mussels or for dessert. We managed to have a little beforehand with butter and the rest to sop up the juices of the chock-full Adriatic Seafood Stew.
  • Duckworth’s Bistrot (http://www.duckworthsbistrot.com/), is a special treat the locals tell me they go to for anniversaries and other celebrations. Half portions (which are plenty big), make it more affordable. The Ubiquitous Bistrot Salad, New York Strip and Roast Pork were delicious, made even better by the very well-considered wine our jewel of a waitress suggested. She knew her stuff.  The Flourless Chocolate Torte and trademark Banana Cake, well, took the cake, topping off a memorable meal.

 

Side trips:

Rocky Neck:

No discussion of Gloucester is complete without mentioning its loyalty to art. Every restaurant and most stores display and sell the art of local artists. Many, including some very famous artists such as Winslow Homer and Edward Hopper, have come to Gloucester hearing of the unique light and stay because it’s so wonderful. Rocky Neck (http://rockyneckartcolony.org/) is an artist’s colony with one cottage gallery after another with unassuming artists who will gladly chat with you.  The new Rocky Neck Cultural Center provides the artists and those who appreciate them a place to gather, hold art shows and community events.

Watchboom-Gloucester-RockportHarbor

Rockport:

Although touristy, Rockport (http://www.rockportusa.com/) is definitely worth a day of your time. The drive from Gloucester to Rockport passes by Surfside Subs (http://www.surfsidesubsgloucester.com/index.php), a little joint by the side of the road that sells authentic lobster rolls as well as Cape Hedge Beach, a lovely place to eat said lobster roll.

Rockport feels slightly miniature with curved rows of shops decorated with ivy and plump hydrangea bushes. Stop at Roy Moore Lobster Co. (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Roy-Moore-Lobster-Co/125287641097) for a snack of smoked salmon or shrimp cocktail or for lobster “in-the-rough” that you can eat on the tiny back deck overhanging the small inner harbor. For coffee or tea, Bean & Leaf (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bean-Leaf-Cafe/302876466426) has a beautiful view of the ocean.  Stop in Lula’s Pantry which sells kitchen and pantry ware in a chic atmosphere. Grab some crackers, cheese, chocolate and a soda for a picnic because the sea air works up an appetite.

That’s the thing about these areas – everywhere you turn, the ocean and a way of life connected to the sea is right there! It’s amazing, rather magical and to be respected and enjoyed. So eat, shop and play – like the locals.

See our album of photos on Facebook.

 For more information about Gloucester and surrounding regions, contact the City of Gloucester, MA (http://www.gloucesterma.com/), the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce (http://www.capeannvacations.com/) and Good Morning Gloucester (http://goodmorninggloucester.wordpress.com ).

 For a list of all of the movies that have used Gloucester and surrounding areas as film sites, visit: http://www.capeannvacations.com/Vacation.cfm?ck=208

 

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With all eyes on New Orleans for this Sunday’s Super Bowl, consider planning a little getaway. Here’s our suggested, three-day biking itinerary of food, drink, culture and art in New Orleans.  (Plan your trip for March 15-17, 2013, which culminates on Super Sunday, and it will be the best trip ever!)

Day 1: Get to know the neighborhood

WatchBoom-NewOrleansTandem Bicycle

Rental bikes abound in New Orleans…are you brave enough for a double tandem? Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

As you adjust your seats and brakes, you may look around and notice that the pace of your life has changed.  You feel laid back and relaxed and as you ease onto your cruiser bike which gently creaks with a smidge of southern rust, your whole world shifts a bit and you may begin to appreciate this town in a whole new way.

Prior to arriving in New Orleans, reserve a bicycle tour with Confederacy of Cruisers. Choose the Original Creole New Orleans tour which meets outside the lovely Washington Square Park, providing a quiet early morning start to your day.

This tour is a solid foundation for those who have traveled to New Orleans before, but it is also an eye opening tour of unseen, unnoticed quiet little respites for everyone to discover. Covering the history of New Orleans, you gently bike through the neighborhoods of Marigny, Bywater and Treme.  As New Orleans has no hills, this ride is a slice of pie and is topped with a stop at a local haunt offering Abita Strawberry Harvest Lagers or a beverage of your choice.

WatchBoom-NewOrleansGeorge Ohr Paintings

Paintings of the George Ohr, “The Potter of Biloxi” Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

Once your bike tour has concluded, walk back towards the French Quarter to a little bicycle rental shop called Bike Nola.  They offer decent daily rates, delivery and pick up from your hotel and they also have a lovely antique store attached which showcases historic Nola décor and a huge assortment of George Ohr art.  Ohr, known as the “Mad Potter of Biloxi,” is an important ceramicist whose granddaughter lives in New Orleans. She has made it her mission to paint her grandfather’s sweeping moustache and crazed eyes in vivid neon colors.  She also makes gorgeous functional and non-functional pieces of pottery based on the New Orleans manhole covers.

After turning in your bike rental, your Friday evening can commence. With so many possibilities and so many different areas to explore, which will you choose?  Where will you go?  Take nice little jaunt over to Acme Oysters, where you will need to wait in line.  (You have to.  It’s always busy but it is worth it!)  Once again, order an Abita and enjoy its amazingly cold exterior and cascading condensation that pools all over the Formica table.  NOTE:  It is not oyster season in March.  Traditionalists will poo poo the notion that you are eating oysters flown in from Japan.  You have nothing to fear, the oysters are still amazingly delicious and worth every little tiny penny spent on each platter. Men, with hulking forearms, quick humor and fast moving hands, stand behind the bar shucking oysters as fast as people order them

Acme Oysters are worth the wait.  Add some lemon, hot sauce and a cold beer and you can officially say that you have had a great day. Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

Acme Oysters are worth the wait. Add some lemon, hot sauce and a cold beer and you can officially say that you have had a great day. Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

and provide a constant dialogue with customers.  Soak in the sounds and flavors and then grab your bike and ride along to your next destination.

Meander through the French Quarter and its side streets.  Check out the various voodoo shops, commercial art galleries and grab a to-go daiquiri for the voyage.  The need to stay hydrated is an important one and New Orleans is always obliging.

As you head down south, you will see a section of path that is next to the waterfront.  Take a ride up and down and take in the industrial sites and sounds and commerce along the water.  You may see a big white ferry going back and forth to Algiers Point.  Wait for sunset and the murky water comes alive as the low-lying sun washes its surface.  The best part of this ride is that the ferry is FREE!!  Algiers Point is a suburb of New Orleans that is a less frequented part of the city.  Hurricane Katrina didn’t hit it and every neighborhood is still intact giving you a glimpse of old New Orleans.

There are three bars in a mile radius of the dock and each one is thick with charm and history.  First stop…Old Point Bar.  Walls covered in chalk handwriting, signs from 1880 and surly patrons are just a few highlights of this authentic destination.  (Check out both bathrooms, as each is an unbelievable juxtaposition of old, whimsy and crazy layers of history.)  This is not for the faint of heart, this is where men go to drown their sorrows and it is a lovely vacation away from any other happy go lucky corner bar.  And be sure to leave your name or anthem on the wall before you leave.  If you want to spend more time in New Orleans “Brooklyn neighborhood” (as I call it), ride to the Crown and Anchor English Pub for a pint and then cruise on in to the Dry Dock Café for a nautical moment of bliss.  The last ferry from Algiers Point leaves at midnight…so don’t be late!!

Day 2: Museums, shopping, happy hour-ing

Filled with culture and history, New Orleans boasts museums of all sorts and they are all accessible by bicycle.  The New Orleans Museum of Art is about a half hour ride away from the French Quarter neighborhood and even if it that sounds like a long distance, there are no hills!!  (With no hills in this city, any distance is attainable.)

Leave bright and early and stop for the classic beignets and coffee at Café du Monde and this nourishment will leave you fortified for the ride up north.  The magnolia tree lined parkway is lovely upon entry into the museum grounds and the classic architecture of the building is a veil of what truly lies within.  Contemporary and modern art are next to decorative objects and historic pieces lending a little bit of everything for everyone.  City Park New Orleans surrounds the museum and provides a leisurely spot to ride within dappled sunlight and large tree canopies.  Down the street is a quaint little French bistro named Café Degas, which offers a lovely brunch menu and great New Orleans-inspired French and Cajun food.  Try the St. Germaine champagne cocktail as a refreshing start to your brunch.  Its delicate flavor weaves in and out, just as Café Degas’ surrounding trees and vines do.

The next stop is the Backstreet Cultural Museum, which will give you a glimpse and historical lesson about the African American and French Indian cultures.  This museum is located in Treme and you will find it a lively neighborhood known for its corridors of music and impromptu performances.  Just around the corner is Louis Armstrong Park and Congo Square, which boast sculptures of jazz musicians and significant French Indians as well as murals and public art worth visiting.

Grab your cruiser and ride on back towards the Central Business District for a happy hour that is an unbelievable deal.  John Besh, one of New Orleans’ most famous chefs, opened Luke Restaurant and created a phenomenal happy hour.  Luke offers half off drink specials and $.50 oysters on a half shell.  These ware the BEST Mint Julep and Sazerac drinks, as each were served in the COLDEST vessels and mixed with great attention.  This stop on your second day is one to be savored and enjoyed.  Sit back and watch the many layers of people and society that filter in and out as this happy hour provides some fantastic people watching.

IF you are still looking for some fun, cycle on down to Magazine Street and take a ride alongside the small galleries and boutique stores.  This street is famous for its quaint shops, eclectic people and diverse goods and is a lovely place to cycle through as the sun officially goes down for the day.  The Cochon Butcher is a WONDERFUL sandwich shop that will create a pork lover out of anyone.  Specials change daily but oh what a delight this place is. The quality and quantity of meat will blow you away.  It will do your body good to get back on that bike and ride to your hotel, enjoying a full belly and the evening’s cooled air swirling around you.

Day 3-SUPER SUNDAY

St. Patty's Day parade! Watch out for falling cabbage. Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

St. Patty’s Day parade! Watch out for falling cabbage. Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

This day happens once a year on the Sunday closest to St. Joseph’s Day.  In 2013, this day also falls on St. Patrick’s Day, March 17th.  Could life get any better or any more wonderful?  I don’t think so.

Start with brunch.  You will need a huge meal filled with rich sauces, proteins and lots of potatoes to nod your head to the Irish. Try Atchafalaya, which is located near the St. Patty’s day parade route.  Amazing hash skillets, benedicts and Cajun creations with a lovely jazz trio playing in the background…you could also call this place heaven if you would like.

Pedal on down to the parade and take in the sights and sounds of the Irish fun and revelry.  If you are lucky you will catch a head of cabbage, box of Lucky Charms and a bar of Irish Spring soap – all highly sought after and hilarious Irish winks.

Festooned with beads that are thrown at anyone and everyone, move on to A.L. Davis Park where Super Sunday kicks off.  Buy a beer

Each tribe has its own color palette and theme that changes each year.  An Indian queen is pictured here. Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

Each tribe has its own color palette and theme that changes each year. An Indian queen is pictured here. Photo courtesy of Jason Bump.

from the nearest cooler set up on side streets and clap your hands because the tribal drum beats and chants are only upstaged by the virtual color wheel that passes in front of you.  French Indians of New Orleans celebrate Super Sunday by parading around in their newly built suits which have been painstakingly hand made with tons of ostrich plumes, beads and other adornments.  Some suits weigh as much as 150 pounds and each artist has spent thousands of dollars as they are made.  Each tribe’s chief, flag boy, scout boy and queens show off their new suit and it is truly the most unique experience I have had in New Orleans…ever.

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It’s “Wave Season,” according to The Today Show, when there are great deals on cruises. Among those mentioned was a  See what’s it’s really, truly like to not only vacation on the ocean but also vacation with kids! Ahoy!

A vacation is one thing. A vacation on the sea is another. Everything is taken up a notch because you are eating, sleeping, playing,

One of the swimming pools on the Disney Wonder.

One of the swimming pools on the Disney Wonder.

swimming, watching movies and stage productions ON THE OCEAN! Having never been on more than a party boat in my college years (that’s a tale for another blog), the idea of being on a cruise ship period, much less with my kids was a little daunting but very exciting.  It turned out to be a better experience than any of us could have dreamed.

When we started looking into taking a family cruise, it just made sense to choose a Disney cruise. We figured who better to create a magical atmosphere for the kids and be as parent-friendly as it is kid-friendly?  We set sail on the Disney Wonder ®, one of the  popular Disney Cruise Line ships which now, conveniently, departs from Galveston,  Los Angeles or Miami depending on the time of year. While the Disney-ness of it all can feel a little corny, just channel your inner child and you’ll end up loving it.

Sea Legs

My first concern was what it was going to be like to be on the wavy ocean. If any of us got seasick, it was going to be a long seven days.  Doubly equipped with sea sickness medicine and accupressure wrist bands, we boarded the ship. We didn’t feel a thing until we were at dinner the first night, as the ship pulled away from the dock.  We were aware of gentle movement but never tossing. It was more like the feeling when you get up too fast.  Our waiters assured us that we would get our sea legs by the next day but brought us preventative ginger ale anyway.  As it turned out, we never needed the pills, bands nor even another glass of ginger ale.  The ship is so large that you really only feel the waves when you are at one end of the ship or another or up on the very top decks. But even then, because you are either having a great meal, seeing a movie watching an exciting stage show or taking in the view of the ocean, you don’t mind the slight movement.

The Food

I’d always heard about the plethora of buffets on cruise ships.  Disney ships are ships are no exception. All of the food is delicious but they really do special things for kids. Notice the catchup Micky.Outside, there were three casual restaurants open from morning to night serving burgers, sandwiches and pizza.  Inside, there was one buffet-only place where we usually had breakfast, a casual Caribbean-themed sit-down restaurant, Tritan’s formal, french-style restaurant and the Animator’s Palate, an amazing restaurant that literally becomes animated and colored. All of your food and drink (except alcohol) is included in the price of your cruise. The first day, my kids kept asking if I was absolutely sure they didn’t need to pay for their food.  Imagine being able to have anything you want, including seconds, and not having to pay a penny.  Even my pickiest eaters found no shortage of good stuff to eat including veggies and fruit.

Food is beautifully presented and you can, pretty much,, have it any way you want.

Food is beautifully presented and you can, pretty much,, have it any way you want.

One of the best things about the Disney Cruise dining experience is the wait staff. You are assigned a waiter and wait assistant from your first meal.  Every night, you have a reserved table at one of the sit-down restaurants, giving you an opportunity to enjoy different surroundings and differently-themed foods but with the comfort of your very own serving staff. Our guys became our anchors for the trip (pun intended). We looked forward to seeing them every day. They knew our names, our likes and dislikes, worried when our son stayed in the cabin with a stomach-ache and gave us great travel tips.  The food was delicious. There was always a kids’ menu with plenty of choices and the adult menu options could easily be altered if you preferred broccoli over the green beans offered. We were spoiled! I had to remind my kids often not to expect this kind of treatment at home.

Cabins

Depending on your budget, you can get cabins on the lower levels of the ship that don’t have a window, have a small window or even

The ship is beautiful at night.

sliding doors and balconies. We had a window and were very glad if only to be able to look outside and see what the increase in movement was about one slightly stormy night. But I’m funny that way.  The beds were comfortable, even the sleeper sofas and murphy beds my kids slept on. The bathrooms are adequate and there’s a TV in every room playing constant Disney movies and helpful information about the ship and the day’s events.

Every room is assigned a cabin steward. Ours was wonderful, asking us daily if everything was alright, if he could get us anything, giving us directions around the ship and making those famous towel animals every night, awaiting us on the bed along with chocolates.  A series of top-notch toiletries were always available in the room, so we needn’t have brought anything but our toothbrushes and toothpaste.

What to do, what to do

Disney is very good at making sure there is something for kids and adults to do all the time – if you want to. It’s perfectly okay to find a lounge chair and totally veg. There are three swimming pools, all of which are fun, clean and spacious enough, although not large. One of the pools sits at the base of a jumbo tron screen that plays Disney movies, old and new, all day.  That pool also gets covered up to create a floor for one of several parties for guests that include singing and dancing by crew members and Disney characters (people in costume with giant Disney heads or lovely ladies dressed up as Disney princesses).

There are also classes for kids and adults, a large movie theater showing current Disney movies, another large, posh theater showing Broadway-quality stage shows that were very impressive, and clubs for kids.

Here’s where we can get a little break from our darling children and vice versa. There are kids’ clubs for babies and toddlers, older kids and teens, all with their own areas to hang out in and staff to guide them and keep mayhem from breaking out.  While the kids are away, the parents can play in their own pool and deck area with super-comfy lounge chairs, internet cafes, a workout room overlooking the ocean (we saw a whale jump while on the treadmill!), classes on wine tasting, a very elegant restaurant called Palo, a spa and a variety of beautiful clubs for cocktails, watching the game or dancing the night away.  I met several families that were there with the grandparents, kids and grandkids. A cruise like this is an ideal place to be able to meet the needs of multiple generations.

Kids and parents keep in touch with Wave Phones, basically cell phones for use only on the ship, that enable you to keep in touch with each other when you are apart. Brilliant idea because although the ship is contained, it is a large ship and there are many places to go.

Throughout the cruise, Disney characters, including princesses, are available for photo opportunities, for a hug poolside or to greet you while you are having dinner. Even though my children are a little past the age of getting giddy over seeing Belle or Micky, they loved it. For the younger kids sailing, it was all pure magic.

Excursions

Every cruise, no matter where it travels, offers excursions – opportunities to get off the ship and explore. The ship has an entire

The destinations offer beautiful sites.

The destinations offer beautiful sites.

department that helps you plan your excursions although it’s best to do that ahead of time, online to ensure space.  I was told by saavy travellers that all the same excursions offered on the ship can be planned on your own, directly with the vendors, once you disembark, for much less money. We did a combination, going to a resort to enjoy their beautiful sea-side swimming pools organized by the ship and also taking a motor boat to an island that we scheduled ourselves after considerable haggling. You might save money going it on your own but there is a real comfort in having everything planned out, where everyone is accounted for and it’s very well-organized.

Tip, although the Pirate Ship excursions sound really fun and the boats themselves are a hoot to see, all decked out in their piratey best, I was told by multiple people that the waters were so tumultuous, that most people spent their trip with throwing up over the sides of the boat. I’m glad I stuck with just watching the “Pirates of the Carribbean” movies on the ship!

The ocean

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Beautiful night on the ocean. The sunsets are amazing at sea.

I thought I would be in constant splendor and amazement over being on the ocean, mountain girl that I am. But I got used to it quickly. I mean, except for an occasional beautiful sunrise and sunset, the one whale we saw and a few dolphin sightings, we got used to being on the ocean quickly and kind of took it for granted. At night, you can see stars although not as many as you’d think because the ship is lit up. The white foam of the waves is lovely at night but otherwise, unless you are sailing with moonlight, it’s just pretty dark.  We did love the smell of the ocean and the sounds.  I am still in awe of the fact that we spent seven days in a vessel that was like its own city but on the huge ocean.  I should have spent a little more time just staring out at it, taking in the magnitude of it, I guess. Well, that’s what the next cruise will be for, right?

Set aside some time – a lot of time – to check out the Disneycruise.com website to see which ships go where, from what port, during what time of year. It can be daunting. I recommend doing a little, early research, then use a travel agent to finalize everything.

All-inclusive vacationing is a wonderful thing, paying once and then never having to pay another penny (except for alcohol and things you buy in the gift shop).  Being able to spend as much time together or apart as you want, with as many activities as you want or don’t want, is what a vacation should be.

What a concept!  Sculptors come from all over the world, to one mountain town, to carve designs, creatures, people and what-not out of  giant , 10x10x12-foot blocks of ice. Battling exhaustion, chilling temperatures (which they hope for) and the bright sun at high-altitude (which they don’t hope for), they make cool things emerge from a big block.

The 23rd Annual Budweiser International Snow Sculpture Championships are under way in Breckenridge, Colorado. Woo hoo! It’s the kind of mountain fun even non-skiers, non-outdoorsy people (like me) can get into. Since Jan. 22, artists have been in Breckenridge, sawing, carving, hacking, chipping and smoothing their designs, working against the clock and against temperatures in the 40′s which are an ice sculptor’s worst enemy.

Awards are given on Jan. 26 when they are expecting 30,000 people to come check it out. But you can still view the sculptures until February 3rd, the end of Viewing Week. Here’s a sampling of what you can see, taken from previous years’ events.

Breckenridge International Snow Sculpture Championships

An example of an ice sculpture. Photo by Carl Scofield.

An example of an ice sculpture. Photo by Carl Scofield.

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Write to us at ingoodtastedenver@gmail.com.

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