I first went to Wazee Supper Club in high school back when the corner restaurant lurked in the dark shadows of the then-crumbly viaduct above. Back then, Wazee was just a tad too far away from the comfort of Larimer Square to be considered a safe neighborhood. Going there was a treat not only for the food but also for the thrill of the slight element of danger it suggested. Everything has changed about that scenario, except the good food, which has only improved. Wazee Supper Club is now in the heart of chic LoDo renewal and has a glammed up look and menu to go along with it.
A few things remain from those early days (and the many days long before I ever set foot in there) like the big windows and black and white checkerboard floor. Gone are the red and black tables and chairs which have been replaced with gorgeous, turquoise, tufted banquettes. There’s also an interesting mix of pendulum lighting that is attractive in itself but that doesn’t do the colors of the upholstery justice by night. But people are there primarily for the food, and it doesn’t disappoint.
Since 2015, Wazee Supper Club has been under the ownership of Roadhouse Hospitality Group. We recently experienced Tstreet Roadhouse from their group and were impressed. We have to say, Wazee impressed us even more with an impressive sense of what goes well together. We started with the Mango Tango cocktail with Finlandia Mango Vodka, Citronge Mango, club soda and grapefruit juice cocktail and the Declaration Brewing Hardtack Copper Ale craft beer, one we’ve never had before. For an appetizer, we had to try the Amazeballs ($10). How can you NOT order something called that?! Living up to their name, five palm-size domes of breaded, deep-fried macaroni and cheese with applewood bacon and jalapeño nestled into a cozy bed of housemade queso! They are tasty but hea-vy! I took two home so as not to spoil dinner (and instead to spoil my mac ‘n’ cheese-loving kid.)
Wazee Supper Club has always been known for its pizza and this incarnation seems to have the biggest, most creative, good-sounding options to date. Take, for instance, the Zeus with Tzatziki sauce, shaved lamb, kalamata olives, red onion, tomatoes, pepperoncinis, feta and fresh mozzarella. Or the Nach-yo-za with ranch dressing, grilled chicken, applewood bacon, pico de gallo, scallions, shredded cheddar and fresh mozzarella. I ordered The Granddaddy because it had some of my favorite things all together – sausage, mushrooms, artichoke hearts and peppers, on a white sauce with feta cheese and mozzarella. The only thing that gave me pause was the balsamic glaze. The heady, syrupy, bold vinegar can sink whatever it’s drizzled on (think: brussels or salad) if it’s applied too heavy-handed. Even when my pretty, 10 inch ($14) pizza arrived, and I saw a plentiful amount of glaze, I thought, “oh no, it’s going to be too much.” But it wasn’t! Amazingly, the balance of all ingredients was perfect. Even after several bites (and several pieces), the balance was retained. Impressive.
My date ordered Fish Tacos ($14) with flour tortillas, mahi- mahi, pico de gallo and apple-chipotle slaw, mostly because this was the first time he’d ever seen them offered with french fries. Yes, important things like side dish offerings can be a determining factor in what one orders! A Fish Taco-aficionado, he was hooked from the first bite. A big strip of lightly breaded mahi-mahi laid in a flash-fried and slightly puffed flour tortilla. Usually, fish tacos are served in corn tortillas but the general manager, Mike, explained to us that one day, they experimented with letting a flour tortilla puff a bit and they knew that was the right choice. The light, slightly crisped texture that is still strong enough to support a full and damp filling held up! The fries were great too – double-fried, we suspect, based on their airy crispness. Other non-pizza options include burgers, a gyros sandwich, spaghetti and meatballs and soups and salads.
Darned full, we pushed it to the limit and ordered the Brownie Sundae. A monstrous celebration in a glass, and on a plate, the presentation is more than half the treat. A dense brownie settled in the bottom of a large goblet, topped with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream, with a burgundy cherry on top. Chocolate sauce was drizzled over the top and onto the plate below which was also dolled up with crumbles of chocolate cookie. Despite all of that, I didn’t find the dessert as chocolaty as I thought it should have been. Maybe a little more chocolate over the ice cream? My date thought it was just fine and after my two bites, he went to town on it, finishing it off.
We’ll return to Wazee Supper Club again soon, with friends and family. I’m curious to see if the well-thought-out combinations of ingredients extend to other menu items. Certainly, there’s something for everyone to choose from, in a slightly glamorous, but totally comfortable and easy atmosphere. I’m happy to see what good old Wazee Supper Club has become. It might just be better than ever.