Restaurant Reviews

Fish N Beer is Here

Fish N Beer
Fish N Beer
You’ll need your seafood fork and your regular fork too for what Fish N Beer has in store.

The idea behind Fish N Beer Oysterette is to create a seafood joint that, according to CEO and Chef Kevin Morrison, doesn’t look or feel like a seafood joint. Morrison and Chef/Partner Aniedra Nichols wanted the place to be a mix of woodsie and warm with sleek and industrial, while letting seafood and beer shine.

You may have had Chef Morrison’s food at his Tacos, Tequila, Whiskey restaurants or at Poco Torteria (which we loved while it was in residence at Avanti Food & Beverage). Now, he’s focusing on seafood that is cooked using one of three different cooking methods – pan roasting, fried and wood-grilled. Before shucking oysters, Chef Nichols was executive chef at Elways Cherry Creek. She sources fish and shellfish directly from the mom and pop fishing boats on both coasts and on the Great Lakes.

We attended a sneak peek of the RiNo restaurant, just a few days before opening. The table tops hadn’t yet shown up as scheduled but no matter. The staff was un-flummoxed and focused our attention where it deserved to be, on the kitchen. Long and narrow, one end of the kitchen has 16 beers on tap, eight of which will always be devoted to Colorado beers, many of whom are located in the neighborhood. The other eight will be from all over the world, making for two interesting extremes of offerings. Wine and a small cocktail list will also be available but beer and fish is the focus, as the name says.

At the other end of the kitchen, the fire’s hot, coming out of the almost primitive-looking wood-fired oven with its dual pully-system that allows either a flat surface or a grill grate surface to be raised or lowered depending on the food on it and the necessary proximity to the heat – so smart! Here’s what this efficient kitchen turned out the day we visited (and happily stood at the counter awaiting each new item).

Fish N Beer
Dilemma – where to start nibbling on this Charcuterie Board with smoked fish dip, soy glazed salmon collar, tonnato in a jar, apple mostarda and giardiniera plus grilled bread.
Fish N Beer
Roasted Beet “Tartare” with smoked burrata, carrot top pesto and house-pickled onion with grilled bread. Even beet-haters will enjoy this pretty starter. One fork plunge into the firm burrata though sent the diced beets squishing. It still tasted good, through and through.
Fish N Beer
We were told the trick to eating this Colorado whole hybrid bass with “Devil butter” is to align your fork down the body from the fish’s eye, then pull out and away, yielding fleshy pieces with a minimum of bone.
Fish N Beer
Fish and chips? Kind of. These are Fried Blowfish Tails – not to worry – these are the non-poisonous kind and are mighty tasty! This is an example of some of the types of lesser-known, under-appreciated fish the restaurant will serve.
Fish N Beer
You won’t even miss the meat in this take on a diner special, the Mushroom “Steak” Commercial with grilled portabella, melted Swiss, scallion whipped potatoes and a crimini mushroom gravy on toasted ciabatta. The flavor was great but hold firm with your fork as you cut the crusty edges or you’ll send your tasty lunch across the table into your dining companion’s lap – sorry, honey/buddy/boss!
Fish N Beer
Order from two options of Oyster on the Grill, in orders of 3 or 6. This is the House variety with garlic butter, parsley and parmesan cheese.
Fish N Beer
God bless the Devil Butter in the second Oyster option with a sauce of grilled tomato, chile de arbol, onion, cider vinegar and garlic. It’s divine!
Fish N Beer
Poor, lone dessert offering! But what would you expect from a seafood joint but something lemony like this Cream Puff with roasted lemon cream and a spiced pear compote.

Fish N Beer is located at 3510 Larimer Street in Denver.

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