Get to know the two locations of Lariat Lodge Brewing Company from guest writer Janice Sakata-Schultze, also known as The Sansei Traveler.

In an area where Coors Beer was synonymous with fresh Rocky Mountain water for decades, the Colorado Front Range has evolved into a craft beer mecca.

Around 2002, I could count the total number of craft beer breweries in my home area of Golden on my hand. I would have to use my family’s hands to tally them now. I have visited Lariat Lodge, a two-location craft brewery that aspires to create flavorful beer and elevated dishes, not just typical bar food.

The original location in Evergreen is a converted log home. Just arriving here, I feel like I’m visiting a mountain abode. The worn exterior lends a rustic atmosphere to the venue. A small penned-in area for dogs allows guests to bring their furry friends along to sit on the sunny deck. Inside, the bar and dining areas sustain that home-like feel, with simple walls adorned with graphic posters of their brews and unfussy tables and chairs.

We have also visited the location in the foothill suburb of Littleton. This one is decidedly easier to drive to, as it’s directly off Highway C-470. Its feel is completely different from the original, with a high cavernous ceiling and second-floor area for private parties, an elevated area for the bar and seating, and giant silver vats for the brewing process behind floor-to-ceiling picture windows.

But no matter your location, the beer and food menus are about the same. The common point is that both have creative touches you may expect from something other than a brewpub. Not surprisingly, their tagline proudly states, “Colorado Brewed, Elevated Food.”

It’s an aspirational restaurant for this reason. I have been to at least a dozen craft breweries in Denver, and few offer full menus. They will often only have a food truck because they are not licensed to cook or serve anything on the premises. I can appreciate any brewpub cooking and serving its food, even more so when it makes an extra effort to do something different.

Here are some of Lariat Lodge’s unique culinary offerings and its beer:

Starters, salads, soups and fries

A perennial Colorado favorite is green chile; everyone seems to have their favorite version or recipe. Lariat Lodge’s was excellent, with just the right balance of slow-burn heat, roasted Hatch chile flavor and tender slow-cooked pork. A generous garnish of shredded cheddar and chopped green onions provided melty goodness and a savory taste.

On a visit to the Evergreen location, I tried the giant soft pretzel with beer-based cheddar sauce and whole-grain mustard. The mark of a fantastic pretzel is a chewy exterior and pillow-soft interior, like the best breads. Lariat delivered on both counts, so much that I didn’t want to share it with my husband. The sauces added the perfect complement to the pretzel and only enhanced the medium-bodied amber ale I enjoyed.

Sandwiches and burgers

Typical of the culinary twists Lariat Lodge attempts is the Lazy Eye Lari’s cheesesteak, which I tried during a visit to Littleton. This southwestern version has the sliced beef, sauteed onions and fluffy hoagie roll in common with its Philadelphia relative. The differences are with roasted poblano peppers, chipotle aioli, marinated mushrooms and pepper jack cheese. It all sounded good on paper, but the sandwich meat and bread were dry and not spicy as expected. It was adequate, but nothing that I would proclaim outstanding.

On another visit, I tried the birria French dip. This dish is one of my favorite sandwiches anytime, so I anticipated this version made with marinated slow-cooked beef bursting with spice and depth, thanks to a braising with five different chiles. Unlike the cheesesteak, this sandwich didn’t disappoint. It included pepper jack cheese, chipotle aioli, cilantro and onions, and a consommé sauce, adding the meaty, complex flavor.

Lariat Lodge’s burgers are standard. As diners could encounter these kinds anywhere else, I didn’t see anything on the menu that would jump out and thrill me.

Entrees

My husband or daughter and I usually share plates because our appetite levels are negligible. However, during my daughter’s and my second visit to the Evergreen location, ordering our plates resulted in much food, but it was worth the take-home portions.

One thing I noticed about the entrees is that there were no vegetarian or vegan options. Besides the fish and chips and brown butter shrimp and grits, the menu is meat-focused and doesn’t even have a chicken dish. Luckily, the kitchen prepares these hearty dishes well. I ordered the blue cheese stroganoff, while she chose a side of sweet potato tots with three different sauces – a root beer barbecue, homemade ranch dressing and their mustard-based house.

The blue cheese in the beef stroganoff imparted a welcome sharp accent to the cream-based mushroom sauce. The noodles, which can often get gummy in this dish, had a perfect al dente texture. Caramelized onions provided a note of sweetness. Finally, my daughter’s tots were crispy and almost candy-like. The sauces offered tangy and creamy complements and were fun to dip.

Lariat Lodge’s Beers and cocktails

With thirteen rotating brews on the menu, beer lovers will undoubtedly find something to enjoy at Lariat. The menus at the two locations differ slightly, but the most popular varieties are available at both. Lagers, ales, stouts and seasonal brews are available, and you can sample four or six beers in a flight.

My personal favorites are the Angry Elk Amber Ale and the Lazy EyePA. I like beers with more body and flavor, so each fits my tastes well. Combining malt and hops with the amber ale achieves the right balance and pairs well with any food. Many people prefer to avoid IPAs because the hops often overwhelm them. I like it for this reason, and this brew doesn’t disappoint. It also has a slight pine note that gives it a clean taste.

If beer isn’t your drink, you can also order wines by the glass or craft cocktails, which include favorites such as whiskey sour, old-fashioned, margarita, and others. The most creative drinks are the Lariat Lingonade, a mix of lemon vodka, lingonberry, and either sparkling peach or cranberry lemonade substitute, and Mountain Elixir, combining rye vodka, St. Germain and aperitivo.

Lariat Lodge Brewing Co. is located in Littleton at W. Indore Place and in Evergreen at 27618 Fireweed Dr. Visit their website, here.

-Story and photos by Janice Sakata-Schultze