My family is of Mediterranean descent so I approach new Mediterranean restaurants with equal parts excitement and trepidation. While I’m happy to have more examples of the region’s cuisine in Colorado so more people can experience it, I can’t help but compare it to the food I grew up with. As I peruse the menu, smell the aromas from the kitchen, and take a bite, I carry with me pride, memories, and high expectations for a way of cooking I love so much. A recent visit to Mazevo made me even more proud of my heritage and renewed my passion for the exciting flavors.
The word Mazevo is Greek for “to gather,” a sadly ironic thing considering the restaurant aimed to be open in the spring of 2020. We all know what happened then…and this summer…and this fall, delaying the formal opening until early October in its Tennyson Street location. “Gathering” physically is a very restricted thing so, while I’m going to tell you about the decor, due to restrictions and no real outdoor dining space, plan to order takeout from Mazevo Mediterranean Eatery and often.
The front room of Mazevo is meant to give the feeling of a covered patio, with a trellised ceiling, expansive windows that open to let in lots of fresh air, flowers (albeit artificial), a beautiful white pebbled floor, and a rustic fireplace that you can imagine being out on a patio for cool evenings or to cozy up to, inside. A few steps up and you’re in the main dining and bar area where some tables are left un-set for social distancing. Larger parties can be accommodated in the back area for a little more space.
Items considered starters or accompaniments in Mediterranean cooking are often the most delicious things. And Mazevo had a good variety of them on their appetizer menu, including the Tahini Hummus ($8), Baba Ghanoush (roasted eggplant-based) ($8), Dolmas (grape leaf rolls) ($8), and Labneh (a thick and tangy, spreadable cheese made from whole milk plain yogurt) on flatbread with deep and dark zaatar spread (a spice blend typically made with dried oregano, thyme, and/or marjoram, sumac and toasted sesame seeds) ($9). Although I really wanted to see how their Labneh and the zaatar tasted (next time), my husband and I opted to share the Mazevo Platter ($14). It had some of everything – hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh salad, marinated olives, and falafel. The last item was a real test for me because it’s easy for falafel to end up like hockey pucks. But Mazevo managed to allow them to be light, tender and flavorful on the inside, while still being crispy on the outside from frying.
For my entree, I chose the Kofta Kebab ($16), ground lamb that is seasoned, pressed together and cooked, plus grilled vegetables, Israeli couscous (the large kind that are so fun to eat), Tzatziki sauce (a yogurt-based sauce that is a nice, cool foil to spicy items), and a green tahini spread. When our server first set the plate down, I turned into a silently snarky teen due to its appearance but pulled myself together quickly, remembering that a long log or meatballs on a skewer are, indeed, the traditional way of serving kofta kebabs. (I’m not immature, you’re immature!)
The Kebab was delicious. In my family, seasonings to go with lamb or ground beef (or a combo of the two) typically revolve around cinnamon, allspice, and black pepper – heady and exotic. I’d imagine all three were present in the Kofta Kebab and maybe more additions including onion, garlic and parsley. The roasted vegetables were just the right amount of doneness (i.e. not mush), and the mild-tasting, fluffy couscous was a nice contrast. We still had some food remaining from our appetizer platter so I was glad to spread a little hummus on some flatbread, topped with a bite of kofta kebab for a perfect nibble. I suggest ordering the Mazevo Platter so that it serves as an accompaniment to whatever entrees you get because Mediterranean flavors are all so complimentary. It’s not that Mazevo’s entrees feel incomplete in any way but it’s just so fun to have a little of this and a little of that when it’s all such good food.
My husband ordered the Harissa Chicken ($16), roasted chicken with harissa sauce, Israeli couscous, and roasted cherry tomatoes. Harissa is a thick condiment with a base of various chile peppers, olive oil, sometimes citrus or vinegar, sometimes garlic, and sometimes even rose petals depending on the flavor profile desired. A fan of any kind of chile, it was a big hit with my husband. The harissa sauce augmented the chicken but didn’t overwhelm it, which can happen.
Other options we waded through to decide on our two entrees included Harissa Cauliflower ($12) for a vegetarian option, Spiced Lamb with Hummus ($15) with sauteed ground lamb, chickpeas, harissa sauce, pine nuts, and zaatar bread; Chermoula-rubbed Shrimp ($16) with green tahini, tabbouleh, and charred lemon; Pan-roasted Salmon with Succotash ($21); and Lebanese Maghmour ($13), baked eggplant with chickpeas, pomegranate seeds, and toasted bread. There are several vegetarian, gluten-free, and dairy-free options.
We were really tempted by dessert, Baklava ($10) a dense but flaky confection of layers of butter-brushed phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts and sweetened syrup. At Mazevo, they serve it with gelato. Baklava is so laborious, my grandma would only make it once a year, around the holidays, in a huge, round tray. She’d then divide it up among her children and their families as a Christmas gift. We knew all of the hard work and love that went into it, which made it all the more delicious. While we would have loved to have tasted Mazevo’s version, we were just too full from dinner. Another reason to return! And we will, absolutely because Mazevo’s food fell into the “exceptional” category for us and that doesn’t happen very often! We’d be regulars if we lived a little closer but the fact that it’s so good and that it’s in a primo spot among the fun and funky businesses of Tennyson Street in north Denver, makes it even more enticing.
Although we can’t freely or safely gather (keep wearing those masks!), we really appreciate the vision written on the website by Mazeva’s Founder Khagendra Gurung (KG): “a relaxing environment that satisfied all of the senses, but also touched on the deepest human need, connection.” Dining there reconnected me with the foods I grew up with and attempt to cook as an adult. Much more than that, though, for all of us, experiencing the cuisines from other places in the world helps bring us all together in the most satisfying of ways.
Mazevo Mediterranean Eatery is located at 3961 Tennyson Street in Denver. They serve lunch and dinner and do catering as well. Learn more and visit them on their website.
What else is In Good Taste? Read about another neighborhood restaurant, Postino Wine Cafe; and listen to our latest podcast.
Please note, we were hosted by the restaurant to facilitate this article but, as always, that does not influence our opinions which are our own, honest and true. Our priority is our readers so we always provide you with our account of the same kind of dining experience you would have. Learn more about how and why we do things on our About Us page.
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