It had been quite a while since I’d gone to Lola Coastal Mexican restaurant in LoHi. My main recollection was that it felt dark. What with the smoky salsas and robust flavors of their food, it worked but still felt…heavy. But now, with a fresh, light look, revamped menu, and new life from a new owner/chef, my view of Lola has brightened. With refreshing honesty, Dave Query, founder of the Big Red F Restaurant Group (which owns Lola), told our gathering of food writers, among the first to see the new space, “After 13 years, Lola needed a kick in the ass.”
Here’s the scoop on what’s new at Lola Coastal Mexican
The look:
Lola Coastal Mexican got a fast and furious but very effective remodel executed by Kari Whitman, said to be one of Hollywood’s most sought-after interior designers. According to the press release, Kari says: “’We used organic materials such as twine, bamboo fabrics, and earth-friendly lighting to transport you to coastal Mexico.’ Oceanic blue tones, brass lights, and large-format photography from internationally acclaimed artist Roberto Dutesco complete the vibe.”
The Chef:
Chef/Partner, Javier Plascencia
Chef Javier comes to Denver with an impressive pedigree: He is internationally recognized as Baja’s culinary ambassador and as the inventor of Baja-Med cuisine, a fusion of the culinary traditions of Baja California and the Mediterranean. He has been featured in numerous publications around the U.S., has appeared in many radio and TV shows including some of our faves – No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain, Mexico, One Plate At A Time with Rick Bayless, and Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmerman. His San Diego restaurant, Bracero Cocina de Raíz, was nominated for a 2016 James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant. And now Lola’s and Denver have got him! Lucky us. He joins Executive Chef Sheila Lucero at the helm.
The Menu:
Our group sampled a range of dishes but started with cocktails. The Violetta (cucumber vodka, creme de violette, lilet blanc, and fresh lime) was one of the best drinks I’ve had in a long time. It spoke to me of sultry summer breezes! Later, I asked for a suggestion for something fruity and, rather than point to an option on the menu, the server asked me if I preferred vodka or gin (gin!), if I liked fruit (yes!), and if I minded letting the bartender come up with a creation for me (not at all!). She reappeared with a beauty of a drink with muddled strawberries, some other ingredients I don’t even remember and a sprig of rosemary. It was delightful and bright. Point is, you can ask the bar staff at Lola to create something for you and they will. And they’ll do it really well. Maybe it will become your new, iconic cocktail.
We started out with a tray of Baja Oysters ($14) served with three salsas, a serrano ponzu, charred pineapple tepache, and melon aguachile. Not your usual Mignonette Sauce, to be sure (and thankfully). Bright, acidic, and with a hint of fruit, they did those delicious oysters proud!
Scallop Tiradito ($11) was the most photo-worthy of all of the dishes we ate (which is saying a lot) featuring scallops in a golden pool of spicy carrot escabeche with radish and Persian cucumber. It was as flavorful and fresh as it was beautiful.
Crispy Cauliflower ($8), from the Small Plates section of the menu included cauliflower puree, xnipec sauce, pickled onion, currants, dill, and pickled fresno – a combo of ingredients I would have never thought to put together which is why I’m not a chef.
Burrata ($12) was another highlight with a strawberry-tomatillo-heirloom tomato salsa that brought out the best in the creamy cheese without taking away its simplicity of flavor. Mustard greens added an earthy, mildly bitter tang. The whole dish totally worked!
The Tijuanero Taco ($7) cleverly mixes shrimp, octopus and carne asada with monterey jack cheese and pinto beans. Yet somehow the seafood doesn’t get overwhelmed by the other, bolder ingredients. Same with the Surf and Turf Tostada ($12) that combines ahi tuna with charred jalapeno crema, dried beef machaca, pickled onion, and avocado. So much flavor in every bite!
The only negative from my experience at Lola Coastal Mexican was the Shrimp Ceviche Negro ($10). What starts out so stunning, with black ash salsa, burnt cucumber, cherry tomato and red onion (see their before-mixing picture below), then looks like this black mess after mixing (see the picture below that). Several of us, wiping black stuff from our lips despite trying to eat delicately, said “This is NOT first date food!” It lost its appeal after the servers mixed it up for us, looking more like a preschool art experiment and taking away from the flavors that were surely there. Next time, I think I wouldn’t mix it and would just cut up bites and dip it in its ashy base.
Out of “Frutos Del Mar,” “Soups + Salads,” “Tacos + Tostadas,” “Small Plates,” and “Sides,” the only part of the menu we didn’t try something from was the “Main Dishes.” There, options include Lobster Enchiladas ($27), Roasted Spatchcock Chicken ($23), and Braised Short Rib. Next time.
Lola Coastal Mexican is clearly lightened, brightened, re-energized and has benefited from its ass-kicking. (Couldn’t we all use an ass-kicking from time to time?) If you haven’t been in a while, it’s time to return and check it out. And, if you’re a regular, take it in with fresh eyes. A gal I sat next to said she always takes first dates to Lola because it’s one of her favorite restaurants. If they don’t like it, that tells her something about the guys, right off the bat. Love that! Maybe the new and improved Lola Coastal Mexican will be your go-to for gatherings with the gang, sips on the patio, dates with your S.O., or an important test someone has to pass.
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