The Brown Palace Hotel is one of Denver’s jewels. People come from far and near to stay there, dine there, have high tea there and, at the very least, go to gaze at the exquisite atrium lobby. Presidents have stayed there. As have the Beatles and a mega pop singer whose name rhymes with Taylor Swift. One of the Brown’s restaurants has had a little work done to its interior and a major revamp to its menu – introducing new tastes while retaining beloved classics.
How does a 100+ year old restaurant maintain relevancy and attract an ever-changing clientele? This is the challenge faced by Denver’s most venerable institution – the Brown Palace Hotel.
The grand dame’s casual hang spot is the Ship Tavern, wedged into a triangular space like the prow of a ship cruising down Broadway. Long enjoyed by locals and travelers alike, the fantastical ocean faring décor (a ship mast dominates the center of a room full of authentic artifacts and whimsical artistic odes to the sea) could be hokey if it was not such a fun authentic throwback to another era.
Saddling up to the bar (a reconfiguration of the longest continuous single-piece mahogany bar in the world) on new nautical-themed stools invites conversation and connection in an age of disconnect. A full line up of cocktails are offered that pay homage to ports around the world including the New York City and the Havana. New to the menu are a few tiki-inspired cocktails including the best Rum Punch we’ve ever had. There are also draft brews (including their own Honey Wheat made with the Brown’s own honey from rooftop hives), wines, and a vast array of whiskeys.
Into this hallowed space, revered by long-time Denver locals, new hotel management by Highgate Hotels seeks to evolve the experience. New Executive Chef Adrian Carson wants to respect the best by retaining favorite menu items while refreshing the line-up for today’s tastes. On a recent media tasting event, we sampled the options and found some hits and misses.
Ship Tavern’s Menu Revamp – The Best of What’s Old and New
New to the menu is a Raw Bar – the Tavern offers fresh oysters, crab, lobsters, and shrimp in a variety of preparations. Continuing the tradition of nautical whimsy, “snacklebox” (tackle boxes) are used as serving platforms for the seafood variety plates called The Baywatch ($65) and The Titanic ($135). Fresh oysters include both east and west coast varieties; all were like a breath of fresh sea air. The Oysters Rockefeller ($26) were also delicious. The Whipped Smoked Trout Dip with Bagel Chips, topped with smoked trout roe and Everything spice ($19) was one of our favorites – creamy and delicious, kissed by smoke essence (but not overwhelmed by it, as is all too common).
Another new menu item, New England Clam Chowder ($14) was delicious and satisfying; chock full of clams and hearty enough to be a meal (with a healthy salad on the side) plus Brunson bacon and a hefty cheddar biscuit.
Steamed Bangs Island Mussels ($26) were meaty morsels, and the spicy Pueblo Green Chile butter was a tasty nod to Colorado; we used the grilled sourdough bread to sop up every last drop.
Whole 1lb Maine Lobster Roll ($46) comes two ways: hot with drawn butter or cold with Tarragon Ravigote, a classic French sauce. The first lets you focus on the delicate flavor of the lobster but the second is nice and creamy.
Colorado Bison Swedish Meatballs ($16) were satisfying and another welcome ode to place – a tasty (non-gamey flavor) shareable.
The Colorado Rainbow Trout ($34) was expertly prepared, and the bed of lentil ragout was surprisingly flavorful. The crispy skin was very good.
Another menu favorite from the past was the Leroy Brown Ale-battered Haddock Fish and Chips ($27); we found the coating flavorful thanks to the Ale but not crispy enough for our tastes. The accompanying duck fat fries were luxurious!
The star of the menu was the Ship Classic Prime Rib Au Jus – spectacular flavor, tender with good “tug” (sometimes prime rib can be pithy or mushy). At $48 for a 12 oz cut and $60 for the 16 oz cut, it is a pricey splurge; at least fries and spinach side dishes are included.
Desserts include black bottom pie, macaroons, and a layered chocolate torte. All were tasty, if you have room.
Some other misses for us were the Truffle Mac and Cheese ($12) from the Sides Menu (not bad but lacking) and the Dry Age Steak Burger which, somehow, just did not have meaty grilled flavor we enjoy and would expect for a $29 burger, even with the $4 bacon addition.
The Ship Tavern offers lunch, dinner, and happy hour specials. Live music is offered many nights of the week, thanks to the ivory-tickling of longtime house musician John Kite – he has played the piano for a remarkable 40 years in the Brown Palace Hotel lobby during high tea as well as bringing jazzy swings to the Tavern. He is truly a Mile High treasure!
Our evening at the Ship Tavern was a delightful reminder of Denver’s few authentic spaces. We will return to enjoy the ambiance, cheers to newfound friends, and create our own memories. We encourage you to check it out, sample the new menu, and experience a bit of Denver’s vibrant living history. Add your mark where generations of cowboys, business types, musicians, actors, artists, world travelers, and locals alike have connected.
Ship Tavern is open Sunday through Thursday from 11am-10pm and Friday and Saturday from 11am-11pm.
Reservations are offered through OpenTable. Valet parking is available, and guests receive reduced fees with validation.
For more information, visit the Brown Palace Hotel. Use our Expedia affiliate link to book your stay.
– Story and photos by Jimmy McDonough
Please note, we were hosted, along with other media, by Ship Tavern to help facilitate this article. However, as is always the case with the writers and editors of In Good Taste Denver, that doesn’t sway our commitment to providing our readers with an honest and objective opinion of our experience there. To learn more, visit our Partner With Us page.
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