We walked right past the front door for Stella’s Cucina twice before we finally figured out that the sleek, steeley door with the “S” logo was our goal. Located next door to Rosetta Hall, the new restaurant in Boulder can be easy to miss. You kind of have to be in-the-know to know where to go. But now you’ll know so that you don’t pass by this chic Italian dining experience with a New York flare.
Upon opening the door, you’re greeted with a long, dramatic hallway with a host stand mid-way. Check in there (reservations are a must), and you’ll be led along the rest of the path and around a corner and… the equally dramatic dining room is revealed. And so are you, making a grand entrance under what feels like a welcoming spotlight. A wall of mirrors gives the illusion that the space is much larger than it actually is. Only the ever-changing digital art panel gave us our first clue that we were seeing double. No matter, there’s plenty of space, with seating in booths, free-standing tables, high-tops, and at the bar where we sat. I recommend this spot because you get to watch the talented bar staff do their creative best.
Stella Spanu, the namesake and owner of Stella’s Cucina grew up in Italy and New York but attended college at CU Boulder. She wanted to bring a taste of her upbringing and family experience in the restaurant industry to her beloved Boulder. We met Stella and, at first, were surprised to know she was THE Stella of Stella’s because she is so down-to-earth and approachable. Spanu has brought award-winning Executive Chef Filippo Piccini on board, bringing his own Italian heritage and culinary expertise in Italian gastronomic cuisine. See photos of both of them in our Pinterest graphic above.
The restaurant’s space was designed and built by architect Miguel Quismondo. It’s definitely a place to see and be seen but it’s also comfortable enough and the staff friendly enough to make it simply a really nice place to eat.
The menu is broken down into Antipasti, Primi Piatti, Second Piatti, Contorni, and Dolci sections. There are vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options available throughout the menu and each is clearly labelled as such. Pastas are made in-house and ingredients are imported from Italy but are also sourced from Colorado farms.
One might feel they “have to” order something from each section of the menu but that’s not the case. We didn’t and there was no pressure to.
From the Antipasti menu, my friend and I shared the Mar Tirreno ($24), grilled octopus, spicy tomato sugo, caperberries, and black olives. If you are already a fan of octopus or have never tried it, this is the place to have it. Tender, smoky (but not overly so), and delicious, the texture of the octopus is perfect and the mix of flavors from the other ingredients, especially the pickley caperberries complement the seafood well. Our server, noticing that we had some of the tomato sugo still left in our space-ship-trippy dish, brought over a basket of crusty bread. “You’re going to want this to sop up that sauce!” Good call.
Other options on the Antipasti section of the menu included Carciofini ($16) shaved baby artichokes, 3-year aged Parmigiano Reggiano, and lemon citronette; and Bruschette Miste ($16) with fig and olive tapenade, Gorganzola foam with balsamic “cavia” and eggplant caponata.
From the Primi Piatti menu, I almost chose Vellutata Di Ceci E Scampi ($18) with heirloom garbanzo bean, rosemary, and wild langoustine or the Taglionlini All’Agnello ($32) with house-made tagliolini, Colorado lamb, white ragu, mint, cherry, and pomegranate reduction. Instead, I opted for the Ravioli Burro e Salvia ($29) with house-made ravioli, ricotta, spinach, Parmigiano Reggiano, and sage butter. It was that last ingredient that got me, reminding me of when I used to make (pre-made) agnolotti pasta back in the day, and would drizzle browned butter and flash-fried sage leaves over it. It was one of my favorite meals to make in a jiffy.
The version at Stella’s was at another level, as one would expect (cuz I am no chef!). The plateful of ravioli were delicious inside and the sage butter was more of an emulsion, a creamy sauce that definitely called for a final swipe of that bread. Had I not had it, a shameless plate-licking might have happened.
My friend ordered from the Secondi Piatti page, skipping the Bistecca de Melanzana ($22) eggplant “filet,” and roasted tomato medley (a great example of a vegetarian/vegan option), or the meaty Filetto do Manzo ($48) with Colorado Angus beef filet, black garlic-Sangiovese reduction, and porcini mushroom.
She was very happy with her choice of Spigola al Forno ($39), whole roasted, wild-caught Mediterranean seabass, fingerling potatoes, chive oil, cured lemon peel and, although it isn’t listed in the menu description, it was served with a very plentiful portion of Erbette Ripassate, seasonal sauteed greens and cherry tomatoes (which is also available as a side off the Contorni menu). I was happy with her choice too since she give me several delicious bites. Although the presentation of poor fishy is a bit of a shocker (can whole fish ever not elicit a moment of “awwww”?), the flavor and texture was amazing. The bass tasted so fresh and light. The greens were tender and didn’t do that weird drying-out-your-mouth thing they sometimes do. They’ll make you a greens lover!
We skipped ordering anything from the Contorni menu of sides which include those greens, a Colorado mushroom medley with garlic, parsley, and chili flakes; roasted potatoes, and spicy cannellini beans ($8-$12) but might add one or two on next time because they sound so good.
Instead, we made sure we had just enough room in our stomachs for dessert, a Dolci. It was a very difficult choice and I felt sad about the desserts I was leaving un-chosen. At $14 each, the options included Panna Cotta made from a saffron-infused cream custard with a nut crumble; Millefoglie with puff pastry, pastry cream, vanilla and strawberries; “Terra” Misu with lady fingers, mascarpone cream, coffee, and the surprise of orange liqueur; and our choice Montenevoso with a Torrone parfait, chocolate sauce, almond, pine nut, walnut, and pistachio. They had me at “Torrone” because I remember going to the international market with my grandparents as a child and choosing a little, decorative box of Torrone nougat. I loved the sophisticated and subtle flavor even as a kid! This dessert took me right back to those flavors made all the better with pine nuts! Brilliant addition.
Stella’s Cucina has a great wine list and gorgeous cocktails. I loved watching the bar staff prepping fresh herbs, dry fruits, and other garnishes for the drinks. While we didn’t order from the bar menu, we watched other diners get guidance for what wine, beer, or cocktails to order to accompany their meals. The staff knows their stuff so trust them.
We had dinner on the early side, so we didn’t get to see how Stella’s Cucina transforms into more of a nightclub/supper club atmosphere, Thursday-Saturday, after dinner service ends. We were told a DJ or small group sets up shop in one corner of the dining room and an area of tables and chairs are cleared to make way for dancers.
Although the vibe, prices, and presentations at Stella’s Cucina are definitely upscale and very New York-ish, we saw diners come in wearing jeans and T’s. While that may be totally okay, I’d encourage guests to take the opportunity to dress up a little for Stella’s Cucina. It’s a special experience and not just a place to grab a bite. We say, embrace the fancy and enjoy it.
To learn more about Stella’s Cucina and to make reservations, visit the website. The restaurant is located at 1123 Walnut St. in Boulder.
-Article and photos (except where noted), by Courtney Drake-McDonough, Publisher and Managing Editor of In Good Taste Denver.
Please note: We were hosted for our visit to Stella’s Cucina to facilitate this article. However, as is always the case, our opinions are our own, honest and true.
Comments are closed.