The thing we love most about a cocktail is that it’s a concoction. Just like cooking a good meal, there are ingredients and measurements and, if you know what you’re doing, the end result is something delicious. Something that has always intrigued us about cocktail-making is “bitters.” We’ve never really understood what they are, where they come from, and what you’re supposed to do with them. Plus, they look like old-fashioned medicine, tinctures peddled by slick salesmen in days of yore, which is also part of the appeal! Finally, we have the answers, thanks to Nels Wroe, founder and president of Dry Land Distillers. He graciously made bitters make perfect sense in this guest post! He even throws in tips for using Bitters at home and a great recipe too. Now we know and now you know too!
Cocktail Bitters 101: Everything you need to know to enjoy and use bitters
By Nels Wroe, Dry Land Distillers
Have you ever wondered how your favorite bartender makes cocktails that taste so much better than those you make at home? Look no further than the tiny bottles of cocktail bitters she has behind the bar. Bitters are often the key difference between a good cocktail and a great cocktail – and an ingredient that is often overlooked.
Cocktail bitters originated as medicinal tinctures as far back as ancient Egypt, where herbs and botanicals were infused in jars of wine. Bitters became more commonplace during the Middle Ages as distilled alcohol came on to the scene. Many of the well-known cocktail bitters we enjoy today (Angostura, Peychaud) were developed in the 19th century as medicines to prevent or cure disease. These strong, infused tinctures were widely sold and used as cure-all potions – rarely delivering on the cure, but definitely creating the foundation for the modern cocktail.
Cocktail bitters were generally limited to a handful of old brands until very recently. The resurgence of interest in mixology and craft distilling has also led to a renaissance of sorts in cocktail bitters. Small batch distillers are experimenting with their own recipes, often using local botanicals, to create a signature tincture that enhances and expands the cocktails they create.
But how do bitters work? “It’s a question we often get from patrons – usually when they see us add a few drops from our medicine bottles into their drinks,” says Aaron Main, Master Distiller at Dry Land Distillers. “Think of cocktail bitters as spices you might add to your recipes. A little pinch here, a drop there – spices add depth, balance, and complexity to the drink.”
Indeed, bitters are typically made with infusions from spices one might have in a spice cabinet – cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, orange peel – but also ingredients that are less well-known, such as wormwood, gentian or dandelion root. Most bitters are crafted around one main flavor profile, such as orange or citrus. Mixologists use specific bitters to enhance a cocktail by targeting flavors they want to highlight or enhance. The bittering agents are a critical component because they can cut through other flavors and ingredients in the cocktail, such as citrus and sugar, without overtaking them. “Bitters are excellent carrying agents that help to separate flavors that are already in a cocktail but might be hidden by the combination of ingredients,” says DJ Riemer, Beverage Team Leader at 24 Carrot Bistro in Erie, Colorado. “They can bring out the subtle flavors and the highlights that make the difference between a solid cocktail and a great one.”
Back at Dry Land Distillers, a quick look at the shelves behind the bar showcases the variety and complexity in their bitters. There are five droppers that contain hand-made bitters: orange, citrus, habanero, celery, and apple. The Dry Land team crafts bitters for specific uses – and sometimes creates a bitter recipe for specific cocktails. “Our drinks are very seasonal. When we bring in new ingredients to experiment with, we often don’t have a specific goal in mind. Instead, our whole team brainstorms new recipes based on the ingredients. Each person will try different recipes – often testing them on lucky patrons – until we all agree on the one we like,” says Main, pointing to several cocktails on their menu. Their Brush Fire, for example, is an original cocktail made from their mezcal-style Dry Land Cactus Spirit and fresh prickly pear cactus fruit juice. “We loved our first recipe, but felt it was missing something. So, we developed our orange bitters specifically to bring out highlights in the cactus juice while cutting a bit of the sweetness. Two drops of bitters completely changes the cocktail.”
If you want to experiment with bitters at home, the mixologists at Dry Land Distillers have some simple guidance:
- Use bitters like you would spices – a little bit goes a long way. Try only one or two drops to start, and add more if needed.
- Try several types of bitters that are built around different flavors. There’s no need to limit your bar to just one or two styles. At minimum, try to have an aromatic bitter, a citrus or orange bitter, and an herbal bitter in your toolkit.
- Consider how you add them to the cocktail. If you want an overall profile to a drink, add them to the shaker or stir them in to the glass. Or, add them to the glass first, swirl to coat the inside, and then add your other ingredients. To highlight the aromatics, pour your cocktail and then carefully add a drop to the surface of your drink.
Dry Land Distillers’ recipe for their spin on the classic Manhattan cocktail:
Dry Land Distillers puts their own spin on a classic Manhattan by using their Heirloom Wheat Whiskey rather than the traditional American rye whiskey.
Their preparation highlights their handmade bitters and vermouth. The result is a graceful, elegant cocktail that is consistently a favorite of patrons in their tasting room. The mixologists at Dry Land Distillers make their own whiskey-steeped cherries to replace the typical maraschino cherries. They recommend looking for high-equality or local preserved cherries to avoid over-sweetening the drink.
2 oz Dry Land Heirloom Wheat Whiskey
1/4 oz sweet vermouth
2 drops orange bitters
Maraschino cherries
Mix the whiskey and vermouth in a mixing glass or cocktail shaker.
Add two drops of orange bitters. (Feel free to adjust this to taste – the bitters have a big impact on the drink.)
Add ice to chill and stir for 15 – 20 seconds.
Strain into a chilled coupe and add one bar spoon (approximately 1 teaspoon) of cherry juice.
Garnish with a maraschino cherry and enjoy!
What else is In Good Taste? If you love making cocktails and want to impress your friends, try these holiday cocktail recipes from area restaurants.
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