When I heard that the husband-and-wife team behind Nocturne was going to open a Parisian-inspired champagne bar next door, named after one of the most iconic Parisian songs of all time, my little French-loving heart said, “oui, oui!” I couldn’t wait to see what the concept would really mean to the downtown Denver location. At a pre-opening fête for media, I got to see and was not disappointed. In fact, I was delighted.
It has been around 11 years since Nicole and Scott Mattson helped re-invigorate Denver’s jazz scene by opening Nocturne, giving as much attention to the culinary program as the musical one. At the preview event, Nicole told us that they have long dreamed of opening a Parisian champagne bar so when the space became available, they jumped at it.
The Atmosphere of La Vie En Rose
In shades of purple, black and burgundy, the Mattsons sought to evoke La Belle Époque era of France and Art Nouveau design with elements that are lush, curvy, fanciful and dressed up. In fact, it’s the kind of place that calls to you to dress up a little so do, please! This is not the place for jeans and a baseball hat – there are plenty of spots for that. Take advantage of the opportunity to step up your going-out garb!
Bench seating across from the curved bar is upholstered in gorgeous purple velvet. A chandelier of sparkling, golden light shines over a built-in “Champagne bowl” of ice for keeping some of the impressive 120 bottle collection chilled and ready to be poured.
A separate gallery room becomes extra space for guests in addition to the velvet and at-the-bar seating. But its real intention is to provide a place for private gatherings that Nocturne, next door, hasn’t been able to accommodate. With a pull of a burgundy velvet curtain, a separate room is created for parties, group dinners and more.
French music plays at just the right volume to keep guests in the Parisian state of mind. Since that’s what I often listen to, it was heaven for me.
Although La Vie En Rose has its own entrance, a speakeasy-ish sliding door leads to and from Nocturne for a seamless evening.
The Food and Beverage Program at La Vie En Rose
Don’t expect big plates of food at La Vie En Rose. But also don’t expect precious foods. Instead, the menu offers something in between. We got a taste of some of the hors d’oeuvres offered and one of the small plates and each one was truly delicious (something that rarely happens).
Under the Hors d’Ouevres menu ($7-$18), each order contains two pieces. We tried the Crab, Avocado & Peach, served on a brassy spoon for a perfect bite of balanced flavors and butteriness. The Smoked Salmon Panipuri was my favorite, with flavorful cream filling the delicate, crackery, hollow ball for a wonderful bite. A Foie Gras Macaron with Sauternes Gel was super-creative, literally a tiny macaron but with rich, savory flavor.
The Oyster Bavarois with Kaluga Caviar, Honeydew, Cucumber and Horseradish was the most ambitious of all our tastings. Elegant and pretty, it requires intentionality to taste each element individually and in various combinations to fully appreciate it. Stop conversations long enough to focus on what’s in front of you.
Our server told us that, depending on how many items one orders, items might be served on a plate like ours was or on a tiered tea tray.
Les Petits Plats (small, shareable plates $11-$19) include quite the variety from a Harvest Salad to “Popcorn” Fried Chicken (combining smoked Creole Remoulade with Champagne Chive Aioli!), to Brasserie Frites and Steak Tartare. We tried La Grand Gougère with smoked ham and truffle mornay sauce. Greg Weadick, Executive Chef, explained that, traditionally, gougère are small, bite-size puffs that are somewhat eggy inside but often taste like burnt egg on the outside. So true! To combat that, and to incorporate all that is wonderful about a ham-filled Croque Monsieur sandwich, he made a large gougère that avoids the burnt exterior (it’s still crispy) but allows for plenty of slightly custardy, tender insides. The better to then dip the sliced chunks into the bowl of hammy mornay sauce for a decadent treat. Weadick says it’s their version of “bread service,” but far more fun and flavor than just bread and butter.
I was surprised to see my gravy-averse husband spooning the Mornay sauce into the nooks and crannies of the bread. “That’s not like you!,” I said. “I know, but I can’t help myself,” he replied.
A single dessert is offered, Paris-Brest ($18). Ample for one, it could easily be shared with two or three. Classically shaped to be like a bicycle tire, and normally more the size of a pie, La Vie En Rose’s Paris-Brest is about palm-size. Pâte à Choux pastry is sliced horizontally in half, sandwiching piped hazelnut mousse, topped with candied hazelnuts and caramel. Take pictures before diving in because that first press of the side of a fork smushes it. No matter though – it tastes just as good as it looks, er, looked. And those candied hazelnuts? Little orbs of crunchy gold! They could be packaged and sold.
It was very much on purpose that every food item created by Weadick would go with champagne so that you couldn’t go wrong with anything you order on the food side. Instead of starting with the food menu and finding drinks that will go with it, like most restaurants would, it was the other way around at La Vie En Rose. Champagne is the star. “Magic in a glass,” the Mattsons said.
Same with the cocktails ($9-$26) with each channeling a person, place or bit of history of France. The Champs-Elysees has Green Chartreus, cognac, lemon, sugar and bitters. The Place Des Vosges has Citadelle Gin, Lillet Rose, Apricot Liqueur, lemon, Absinthe Blanche, Chamomile and Aval Rose Cider. The cocktail we sampled was The Royal Mistress made with Sweet Gwendoline Gin, Lillet Blanc, Salers and Dolin Chamberyzette. It was a light, fragrant, elegant cocktail served in a coupe glass with a small rose perched on the edge. Adorbs! Pink in color, the description on that night’s menu explained that it is inspired by Diane de Poitiers, a redhead of noble lineage who was the mistress of King Henry II. “She was a lifelong student of classical learning with a deep love of architecture, culture and art.” Hmmm, sounds like she would have liked our In Good Taste Denver blog.
How to take it all in at La Vie En Rose
I asked how the Mattsons intended La Vie En Rose to interact with Nocturne. They explained that people could go before or after a Nocturne show or focus completely on one or the other.
An Aperitif Hour at La Vie En Rose runs 5-6pm nightly featuring special pricing on certain drinks, including wine, Champagne by the glass, N/A bubbles and an infused Dubonnet spritz. It’s intended to make for a stop after work or a pre-Nocturne prelude.
Just a matter of practicality – since La Vie En Rose has a single (gorgeous) bathroom, patrons can also go next door to Nocturne. Good to know. Also good to know – the fanciful swan faucet’s wings are NOT the handles, as we, and others, thought. it’s the little stick thing in the middle that controls the water. We forgive it – so pretty!
I’ll bring this article around to its start – the name, which is from a famous song written by Parisian chanteuse, Edith Piaf. As Nicole Mattson explained it:
“La Vie En Rose is so much more than a well-known song. Edith Piaf wrote it in the wake of war, reminding people that love and human connection could make life feel beautiful again – it’s an optimistic view of the world. That resolute spirit of optimism resonates so deeply with what we do. In a world full of increasing noise and worry, we feel compelled to create moments of simple pleasure and levity. La Vie En Rose is a place where people can revel in joy and personal connection. Hospitality, at its best, is emotional alchemy. We take ordinary ingredients – food, drink and care – and turn them into something restorative.”
We sure need all of that these days. And, who can’t use a little “ooo, la, la” in their life too?
La Vie En Rose is located at 1336 27th St., Denver. Their hours are 5-10pm Wednesday and Thursday, 5-11pm Friday and Saturday and 5-10pm on Sundays. For more information, visit their website here.
-By Courtney Drake-McDonough, Publisher & Managing Editor, InGoodTasteDenver.com
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